MUSINGS ON NYC PIZZA

MUSINGS ON NYC PIZZA FROM “ MIAMI GRINGA” HAYDEE


Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano

Should you find yourself at Coney Island with an appetite whetted by strolling the boardwalk, playing skee ball or riding the world-renown Cyclone roller coaster, head two blocks north of the main strip to Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitano.

A Brooklyn institution since 1924 and recently resurrected after a fire in March 2009, Totonno’s churns out succulent thin crust pies that are topped with creamy white, hand-sliced mozzarella. Each one is done to perfection in a few short minutes, thanks to the super-heated coal-fired oven. Best of all, the slices are pie shaped, the way God intended. The servers are friendly and eager to please, welcoming you like a paesano. And you never know who you might meet -- word has it that the godfather of punk, Lou Reed, is a big Totonno’s fan.



Lombardi’s Pizza



According to its website, Lombardi’s is the original American pizzeria, first selling its pies in 1905 before pizza became a ubiquitous part of the American cuisine scene after World War II. Whether they were first or not is irrelevant when you make pizza this good.



On my last trip to NYC, I stayed at the Millennium Hilton downtown near the World Trade Center Site, just across the street from high-end label discount shopping at Century 21 (a pair of Manolo’s at 75 percent off retail and a Pucci silk scarf for a song!) Upon check-in and weary from the flight, I dialed up Lombardi’s (advance research pays off) and had a simple pepperoni delivered, which my traveling companion and I devoured at a table near the lobby bar. The tasty, satisfying pie was molto bene and set the tone for a memorable, foodie-focused Manhattan adventure.



John’s Pizzeria



There are many places to get pizza in Greenwich Village , but they all pale in comparison to John’s on Bleecker Street . Bucking the NYC pizza by the slice tradition, John’s only sells pies, small (14 inches, six slices) and large (16 inches, 8 slices) for dine-in or take-out. And deep-dish fans be darned: it’s thin crust, coal-fired only in this delightful, little parlor.



Though the digs are a bit grungy, the garlicky scent wafting throughout tells you that you’ve found the genuine article. Regulars crow about the outstanding pastas and meatballs, but I say you can’t go wrong with a simple pie and a cold beverage of your choice.



Totonno’s 1524 Neptune Avenue, (718) 372-8606, www.totonnos.com

Lombardi's Pizza, 32 Spring Street, (212) 941-7994, www.firstpizza.com

John’s Pizzeria, 278 Bleecker Street, (212) 243-1680, www.johnsbrickovenpizza.com