LONDON BY WHEELCHAIR

LONDON BY WHEELCHAIR

By Steve Wright and Heidi Johnson-Wright

Overseas air travel, no ADA and a city so ancient it still has remnants of a wall built during the Roman Empire. What could possibly present bigger challenges to a wheeler on vacation?

We planned our trip to London with mixed feelings: fascination and excitement with one of the world’s great capitals, and trepidation because of the (wrongly) anticipated lack of access. But London -- with its plentiful curb cuts, goodly number of accessible transportation options and myriad barrier-free attractions – won us over completely.

Wheelchair access is vitally important to us, because Heidi uses a wheelchair for mobility due to orthopedic limitations resulting from rheumatoid arthritis.

Our first hurdle was just getting there in reasonable condition. Long plane trips requiring lots of sitting can wreak havoc on Heidi’s joints. Airline staff insensitive to a person’s mobility needs can mean mobility aids tossed into the plane’s cargo hold and brought back up in more than one piece. We’d had such experiences before.

But, fortunately for us, this trip was destined to be different. We flew to London on Virgin Atlantic airlines, and were quite impressed with access, service and even the food. Virgin’s staff was very accommodating, offering assistance along the jetways and onto the aircraft. When requested, they made sure Heidi’s manual wheelchair was safely stowed on board the plane, where it was safe and at-the-ready upon arrival. While service in coach is very good, upper class is even better. Our upper class bulkhead seating allowed Heidi plenty of room to transfer into her comfortable, reclining seat, or to intermittently stand and stretch.

We arrived at Gatwick airport and made our way to the Gatwick Express train station adjacent to one of the concourses. We accessed the train platform level via elevator and the conductor adroitly put a portable ramp in place so we could board with ease. Porters are available to help with bags. We sat in a designated area for a wheeler and companion. Nearby was a large, very accessible unisex restroom with an automatic door, grab bars and plenty of room to accommodate a chair, wheeler and -- if needed -- a personal care attendant.
The Strand Palace Hotel, with its superb west end location near Covent Garden and the theater district, was our base of operations. Though the Art Deco-detailed property was a bit careworn, it featured satisfactory access with a portable ramp at the side entrance, an elevator and a portable bath bench for the shower. We had a good-sized room on the hotel's club floor, and had more than enough space to negotiate Heidi's wheelchair around the furniture.
Once in London, we set out to explore the city on foot and wheels. We’d heard that the city was eminently walkable, and soon confirmed it for ourselves. We found curb ramps at nearly every intersection, and wide, smooth sidewalks along many streets. And London has such a human scale. One feels comfortable walking through the city’s famous neighborhoods amongst the business people in suits on their lunch hours, students laden with backpacks on their way to class and delivery men unloading boxes at that back doors of restaurants and pubs. The streets are inviting, fascinating theaters of ever-changing daily dramas.

The Embankment with its parks along the River Thames is reachable from The Strand via cross streets such as funky Villiers Street, next to Charing Cross Station. Strolling here gives one a flavor of this majestic working river. Covent Garden has its colorful labyrinth of indoor and outdoor vendors selling everything from food to flowers to T-shirts to cufflinks. Soho still maintains its legendary Bohemian quality, though many of the shops are decidedly upscale in goods offered and prices charged. While not all shops are accessible, many have flush level entrances, though simple window-shopping can be a delightful way to pass the time.






Despite its walkability, London is a large city with a lot of ground to cover. For many wheelchair users, London’s famous wide-bodied cabs are a viable option. Most are equipped with ramps that pull down from the chassis, or the drivers have portable ramps in the boot that can be quickly installed. While the ramps are a bit steep, they allow wheelers to roll up directly into the cabs and remain in their chairs. Heidi and her lightweight manual chair rolled in with help from Steve, who also steadied the chair during trips since cabs usually don’t have tie-downs. Drivers generally know to park up against a curb so that the distance from ground to cab is reduced and are good at quickly readying the ramps.

One of our taxi trips included a search for an accessible Moroccan souk in the heart of Mayfair. Momo is a scintillatingly exotic, incense-tinged sojourn into 1,001 Arabian Nights. Here one becomes pleasantly entranced by the dark woodwork and Moorish-style decorative accents. Indoor and outdoor dining is wheelchair accessible, but plan a restroom trip elsewhere before or after your meal, as the loo is downstairs. Because the London weather was gently balmy that day, we chose to dine outside beneath sweeping canvas awnings.

Steve selected the tagine de poulet aux citrons confits et olives vertes: chicken tagine with lemon confits and green olives: a pungent stew of tender poultry and aromatic spices. The aroma and taste were heavenly. Heidi’s couscous brochette de poulet -- chicken couscous -- was magnificent. Expertly grilled, marinated boneless chicken arrived on a side plate. The pieces -- along with a side of lighter-than-air bulger wheat and golden raisins -- are then added to the mini-pot containing the delicious pieces of vegetables and the exquisitely flavorful stew-like sauce. We also sampled the hot-out-of-the-oven quince tart, with sweet, fleshy quince slices atop a scrumptious pie-like crust, served with a dollop of quince ice cream and mint leaves.

Though most of London’s most famous neighborhoods are north of the Thames, the South Bank has much to offer. One way to get there is via the iconic red double-decker buses that travel myriad routes. The newer buses are very wheelchair-accessible and are marked with the international access symbol. Wheelers board from the side, where an automatic ramp, controlled by the driver, deploys. Once inside, special designated areas are reserved for wheelchairs, and feature lowered blue buttons for signaling a desired stop. There are no tie-downs, but drivers generally know to avoid jackrabbit stops and starts with a wheeler on-board, thus minimizing unexpected chair sliding or pivoting.

The British Airways London Eye, an other-worldly, totally-wheelchair accessible experience, is on the South Bank. The Eye is the world’s tallest observation wheel and takes visitors on a gentle, 30-minute ride in transparent passenger capsules 450 feet above the ground. The capsules turn slowly, and allow for a 360-degree panorama view of the London skyline. We boarded from a gently-sloped ramp and were able to roll Heidi’s wheelchair directly into the capsule without encountering steps. Staff is well-trained in boarding wheelers and do so with non-chalant skill. The Eye’s facilities in County Hall – including the ticket office, restrooms and a coffee shop – are accessible as well.

If energy level permits, the Millennium Bridge is a wonderful and barrier-free way to cross back over the river. Accessible via elevator, this pedestrian bridge provides sweeping views of the Thames and the city. Once on the north side, a short cab ride delivers one to the grounds of one the world’s finest repositories of history and art, the British Museum.

Here is the place to see such treasures as limestone blocks from the Egyptian pyramids, the Rosetta stone, artifacts from Roman Britain and breath-taking artworks from Asia, the Islamic World and elsewhere. As we entered the main gate on Great Russell Street, a guard pointed us in the direction of a self-operable lift to the left of the steps where a bell is also available for visitors requiring assistance. The well-maintained lift provided a gentle ride up to the entrance level. Once inside, the rotunda impressed us with its grandeur, an artwork in itself. We picked up a map to get oriented, then began exploring. There are many different levels to the museum, but elevators and ramps provide access to most displays.

But man cannot live on history alone. And what would a trip to London be without sampling some Indian cuisine? We got a tip on an excellent eatery at Piccadilly, and just off the English equivalent of Times Square we entered an unremarkable office building. (Again, make a trip to the loo elsewhere, as the restroom is reachable only by many steps.) We took an elevator to the mezzanine level, and stepped into a cheerily lighted restaurant called Veeraswamy. No stale-smelling, curry joint carpet here: just blonde wood, luxe fabrics and sleek, modern lamps. Not what we expected from the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in the United Kingdom.


Steve selected the spicy crab cake appetizer and delighted in its dazzling flavor and heat. Steve’s more traditional chicken tikka entrée was done to other-worldly perfection, which he paired nicely with an understated pinot Grigio. Heidi feasted on a delicate chicken samosa appetizer, followed by wonderfully piquant and sizeable prawns in a red curry sauce, served with Basmati rice and complemented with an icy cold Cobra beer. Moist, fluffy naan bread rounded out the main course. But the topper was a multi-layered creamy cake, painstakingly created layer by individual layer, and garnished with black pepper ice cream.

We’d had several outstanding meals on our trip, but we couldn’t depart without enjoying that most civilized of English traditions: high tea. And where better to experience tea than the fabled Savoy Hotel? Though the Savoy was built long before disability access consciousness, the staff does an amazing job at accommodating guests with mobility impairments. When we made reservations by phone for our tea, Heidi mentioned her special needs. Upon arriving in the lobby, a bellman escorted us through several halls, down an elevator, and through a small part of the kitchen. We then arrived at the Thames Foyer, an opulent setting with a view of the river and a storied history. Here entertainers such as Noel Coward performed and Queen Elizabeth II had her coronation ball.

Several servers attended to our every need, bringing us each our own tea pots and a fabulous selection of tea sandwiches, including the classics, watercress and salmon. We nibbled these, then moved on to the succulent sweets and petit fours while enjoying live piano music. When it came time to depart, a staffer seamlessly escorted us back out to the lobby. All in all, excellent access for a hotel that opened its doors in 1889.

Departure day arrived all too quickly. We took one last cab ride to Victoria Station, where we boarded the Gatwick Express train back to the airport. Great dining, many transportation options, unforgettable attractions and walkable streets made our London vacation one to remember.

Wright is an award-winning journalist. Johnson-Wright, who has used a wheelchair for mobility for 25 years, is an Americans with Disabilities Act Coordinator. They live in an accessible, restored historic home in the heart of Miami’s Little Havana. Contact them at: takingflight@msn.com


IF YOU GO:

Virgin Atlantic Air: Call 1-800-862-8621 for reservations, or go on-line at: www.virgin-atlantic.com
Gatwick Express trains: Tickets can be purchased in advance by calling 0845 850-1530, or on the website at: www.gatwickexpress.com or upon arrival at Gatwick Airport or at Victoria Station.
Strand Palace Hotel: 372 Strand, London, WC2R 0JJ. Call for info at: +44 (0)20 7836 8080, or make reservations on-line at: Reservations@strandpalacehotel.co.uk. Website: www.strandpalacehotel.co.uk.
Cabs: The principal companies with radio-controlled cabs are: Computer Cab, phone: 0171 272-0272; Dial-a-Cab, phone: 0171 253-5000; and Radios Taxicabs, phone: 0171 272-0272. For info on-line, visit: http://www.transportforlondon.gov.uk/pco/ or contact the Public Carriage Office at: 15 Penton Street, London, N1 9PU, or by phone at: 0207 941-4500.
Buses: For info on-line, go to: www.transportforlondon.gov.uk/buses/index.shtml, or contact the Customer Services Department at: London Buses, 172 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 9TN; phone: 0207 918-4300
Momo: 25 Heddon St., London, W1; phone: 0207 434-4040.

Veeraswamy: Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St., London W1B 4RS, (entrance on Swallow St.); phone: 0207 734-401; on-line: www.veeraswamy.com

Thames Foyer at The Savoy: The Savoy, Strand, London WC2R 0EU; phone: 0207 836-4343; online: www.savoy-group.co.uk/Savoy

The British Airways London Eye, Jubilee Gardens South Bank (next to County Hall); phone: 0870 5000 600; on-line: www.londoneye.com


The British Museum, Great Russell Street; information desk: 0207323 8299; main website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk; web page with access info: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/visit/access.html; e-mail: information@thebritishmuseum.ac.uk

London Pass: To save yourself the time and energy of standing in line, consider purchasing the London Pass, which provides fast, free entry to over 50 of the city’s popular attractions. Contact them on-line at: www.londonpass.com; by mail: The Leisure Pass Group, PO Box 2337, London W1A 5WE; or phone: 0166 450-0107.

London Tourist Board and Convention Bureau: 1 Warwick Row, London, SW1E 5ER; phone: 0207 932-2040; online: www.visitlondon.com

National Key System for accessible restrooms: The non-profit organization RADAR, which seeks to integrate people with disabilities into the community, operates the National Key System. The NKS is a program which provides keys to people with disabilities they can use over 4,000 accessible restrooms in the UK, which are otherwise unavailable to the general public. Write them at: RADAR, 12 City Forum, 250 City Road, London, EC1V 8AF; phone: 0207 250 3222; e-mail: radar@radar.org.uk

Access Project: For an excellent guide to accessible travel in London, contact the Access Project and ask about their book, Access in London. You can order a copy of the guide by sending an e-mail to: gordon.couch@virgin.net or by writing to: Access Project, 39 Bradley Gardens, West Ealing, London W13 8HE. The guides are distributed without charge, but donations are requested. Visit the Access Project on-line at: http://www.accessproject-phsp.org