JEMAA EL-FNAA (12)

    THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

The square at night is filled with sights, smells, sounds and intrigue.

It’s not the 21^st century.

It would be some point in the ancient history of this trading crossroads.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (11)

   THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Red, purple, orange and yellow illuminate the sunset at Jemaa el-Fnaa.

All the tourist trinkets.

All the tour guide touts.

All the pushy vendors.

Melt away from memory.

You are in photography paradise.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (10)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dusk in Jemaa el-Fnaa is inspiring.

But interesting to nefarious things are likely taking place on the square and all around its fringes.

Or at least that’s the places many short story tellers take you in Marrakech Noir.

Akashic Books published the finely-crafted volume of dark stories, translated from Arabic, French, and Dutch.

http://www.akashicbooks.com/catalog/marrakech-noir-morocco/

JEMAA EL-FNAA (9)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Sunset is a magical time in the Red City.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (8)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Grab a seat at any of the dozens of multi-terraced cafes.

Order a simple tajine or cous cous.

Watch the food vendors assemble like time lapse before your eyes.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (7)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Barbary Macaques are the only primate species endemic to Morocco and Algeria.

The have been categorized as “endangered to extinction.”

It is prohibited to sell or keep them as pets.

Despite the restrictions, Barbary Macaques are used as photo props for tourists, 

JEMAA EL-FNAA (6)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakech.

It was founded in 1147 and entirely rebuilt around 1158.

It cuts a gorgeous figure over the main square, especially when the sun sets behind it.

Enjoy the mosque from the outside – unless you are Muslim, you are not allowed to enter.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (5)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Goat heads seem to be a popular item at the food stalls.

Locals far outnumber tourists at the stalls.

Pick a place that looks crowded with locals and try something.

The prices are so low, you will not be losing much money if you don’t clean your plate.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (4)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Every day of the year.

From dusk till past midnight.

Smoke fills the air.

Grills are filled with meats.

Stews and soups boil and bubble.

Food vendors fill the square.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (3)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

You read about it in the guide books.

You’ve seen it in old movies.

It’s even been depicted in countless cartoons.

But when you are walking and gawking and almost stumble across cobras…it gives one a jolt.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (2)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dozens of cafes have multiple terraces that overlook the main square.

Some are top restaurants favored by wealthy locals.

Many are tourist traps with decent tajines.

A few are once grand, but now faded French-themed dowagers.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (1)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Locals and tourists jam the square from morning till late into the night.

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 7

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

Essaouira fishermen seem to have a special connection with the port cats, giving them fine cuts of fish, along with the odd chin stroke. 

The leftovers – which a cat might usually be expected to eat – are for the seagulls.

With their bellies full the cats have a siesta on a bed of soft fishing nets, away from the wind.

Anyone want to swap places?

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 6

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

Why? 

Probably because they have certainty in life: a daily supply of more fresh fish than they could ever eat. 

Sardines, barracudas, eels – if it swims, the fishermen will sell it. 

And the cats are taking advantage.

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 5

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

At Essaouira’s port lives possibly the happiest cat colony in Morocco. 

Well fed and completely relaxed, its inhabitants are quite a contrast to their counterparts across the rest of the country.

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 4

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

One thing that’s rarely mentioned in guides to Essaouira, however, is its status as unofficial cat nirvana. 

Here, on the shores of the tempestuous Atlantic, is a place that offers true joy for felines – and their adoring human friends.

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 3

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

A charming coastal town, with none of the chaos that you’ll find in busier Moroccan cities, 

Essaouira has long been known for its surfing culture and the quality of its seafood restaurants.

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 2

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

And while Istanbul, Rome and places further afield jostle for status as “travel cat” heaven, 

laidback Essaouira is quietly making things happen organically.

THE HAPPIEST FELINES OF ESSAOUIRA -- 1

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE WRIGHT/WORDS BY:

AKEES VAN UNEN AND SANNE ZURNE – THE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL

There are two types of people who go on holiday. 

Those who go straight for the local cats, and the misguided few who don’t.

ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO -- 5

FAMOUS FISHING BOATS

The smaller blue boats go out for fishing when the wind is blowing little from north and there are no high waves.

The fish is sold in the port market.

Several market stands grill fresh fin and shellfish and serve them with salad, fries, French bread and beverages to tourists and locals.

--https://www.essaouira.nu