TRADITIONS AND INTRUSIONS -- ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Fatih is one of the most observant areas of old Istanbul.

Women in full Muslim garb is a very common sight.

Fatih also overlaps some of the most popular tourist areas around Sultanahmet Square.

So buildings the surely once housed blacksmiths, tinsmiths, household goods shops and other neighborhood retail have long been converted to host global consumerism.

The juxtaposition of dignified Islamic women.

And the dreaded Golden Arches.

Was too interesting to pass up.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 9

A final word on the elephant in the room: the safety factor in Turkey.

I booked my trip to Istanbul days after the Ataturk Airport bombing and the failed coup played out on TV 6 weeks before my arrival.

I had trepidation.

On arrival, I found things to be as safe as a Midwestern main street.

Being out late at night, exploring back alleys and having almost no Turkish language skills didn't matter -- I was in a very safe urban environment.

I went to more than a dozen mosques and received warm welcomes. 

 

Not for a second did I feel ill at ease for being a Westerner. 

 

Quite the opposite, I found hundreds of people who spoke flawless English and hosted me like I was a long lost relative. 

 

And I'm not just talking about carpet shop touts or Grand Bazaar salesmen. 

 

I'm talking about everyday people, who maybe saw my camera and new I was a tourist -- and politely suggested I go over one street to see an ancient synagogue...or I venture two more blocks downhill for a spectacular vista of the Golden Horn that only locals know. 

 

This was the Istanbul Turkey that I found. 

 

The tradition of world class kindness and hosting started at Hotel Niles and carried over through hundreds of locations that I visited.

 

I would recommend staying at the Niles and visiting Istanbul to everyone I know. 

 

http://www.hotelniles.com

 

 

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 8

Hotel Niles deserves your business because it delivers 5 star features at a 2.5 star price.

It is your best bet in central Istanbul because of its outstanding staff.

From ownership to management to the breakfast rooftop terrace staff to night front desk folks and more, the Niles truly is like family.

You care about them.

You want their advice for your daily itinerary.

You are thrilled when they steer you away from the tourist trap (there are many in the most popular areas) and into the best (doesn't mean most expensive) place to eat...from nearby the hotel to far flung destinations in Karakoy, Kadikoy, Eyup and beyond.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 7

Hotel Niles is nearly perfect.

I cannot stress how important it is to stay near a tram stop.

The trams are dirt cheap, have very frequent headways, are safe, clean and climate controlled.

The T-1 tram goes to 90% of the places you will want to see during a one-week visit.

The Eminonu T-1 stop on the water gives you ferry boat access to just about everywhere else you'd want to go.

And you do want to take the safe, affordable and fun ferry rides to the Asian side, up the Golden Horn and along the mighty Bosphorus.


I almost forgot to mention that the Hotel Niles is super close to the Grand Bazaar.

It's truly walking distance to AyaSofia, Topkapi and Blue Mosque -- just two tram stops away if you prefer the T-1.

For pedestrians, it really is fun to walk east on the old Roman Road to see dozens of tombs, grave stones, smaller mosques, fountains and other ancient examples of architecture and urban life.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 6

To prove I'm not a paid reviewer or family member of Hotel Niles' ownership-management team, I will share the very few negatives.

First, it is a very steep walk up to the main street and tram stop.

It's not far, but folks with mobility or respiratory issues may not be able to go up and down the steep, cobbled side street.

Second, and this because I'm married to a wheelchair user, the Niles is not wheelchair-accessible.

There are a few steps to get inside the property.

The fabulous terrace, for breakfast and then drinks in the evening, is up several steps.

The elevator, which stops a half floor short of the rooftop, is very small -- too small for some wheelchair users.

That said, the Niles does not pretend to be an accessible hotel, so zero bait and switch on access.

And sadly, it is in the vast majority.

I'd say 95 out of 100 mom and pop-sized hotels do not have wheelchair access.

It's a shame and it's something that I'd love to work to change.

Until then, I cannot stay at Niles when I return to Istanbul with my wife.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR & BEYZIT TRAM STOP
part 5

The Hotel Niles Istanbul's price is amazingly low.

 

I paid roughly $75 USD per night, fully loaded -- as in room, breakfast and taxes. 

 

Istanbul is a world city.

 

I cannot imagine what a fleabag room I would get in New York or London for 75 sawbucks.

 

It would certainly be unclean, loud and disgusting.

 

The Niles was like staying in a friend's one bedroom apartment. 

 

Yes, it does not have a full-service restaurant, but that is fine. 

 

There are restaurants everywhere in Istanbul...casual, cafeteria-style, mid-range, etc.

 

The Niles rooms have microwaves, so you can re-heat your doner kabap or pide. 

 

Niles' location is perfect.

 

Istanbul is a loud city.

 

It is very hard to find a place in close proximity to what you want to see/do, but allows you to rest like you do at home. 

 

Niles delivers on this, being on a relatively quiet street with very little traffic.

 

I heard some music from a nearby restaurant, but it never, even on weekends, went on past 10:30 or 11 p.m.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 4

The front desk was incredibly attentive to my needs.

As a frequent traveler, I have my system of stashing the extra pillows and blankets away.

I don't want them put back on my bed by housekeeping.

Sometimes I arrange the blackout curtains in a way that I don't want disturbed, because I won't be back till after dark -- so why mess it all up for nothing.

The front desk took down my requests -- often to empty trash, remove wet towels, replenish water bottles and do nothing else -- and housekeeping honored this.

By the by, the bed is very firm, but I found it to be super comfortable.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 3

My room at Hotel Niles was a perfect square, with the bathroom sort of jutting back into the hallway as a separate space.

I loved the size, cleanliness and efficiency.

A mini fridge had bargain basement prices for its fresh beverages and snacks.

It also had plenty of room for me to stash food or drink that I'd acquired from local shops.

Two nice tables and lots of outlets provided space for my bedside water glass, white noise machine, etc.

The bathroom was the star.

I great western-style flush toilet (for any of those phobic of the squat style in the city), a huge counter around the sink for all my shaving gear, toothbrush, etc.

The bath features a mini hamam (Turkish Bath) complete with marble decor, wash basin, low-slung seating area and copper bowl for cool rinsing.

A perfect western-style shower is connected, with shower wand and all great bath products provided by the Niles for quick showering when I didn't have time to relax in the steam of the hamam.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 2

On my first full day at Hotel Niles Istanbul,  I awoke and lazily rode the elevator one floor then walked the stairs to the roof garden.

Some have called it small, but I think it's plenty large for Niles' size.

Lots of indoor and outdoor space.

And the orientation of the outdoor space allows you to be in the shade in the morning and the evening -- by choosing the west side early and the south side late.

The breezes are devine.

To the north, Beyazit Mosque's dome.

To the south, vistas of ships on the Sea of Marmara.

All around, rooftops of Old City Buildings.

Breakfast has toast, jam, my beloved simits, pastries and a host of salad items -- peppers, olives, eggplant, cheeses -- stuff more traditional Turkish than American.

The fabulous staff offered egg preparations (I'm not an egg guy) and had outstanding coffee at the ready.

Tea -- Turkish and apple -- also was always fresh, tasty and served in a tulip-shaped glass.

HOTEL NILES ISTANBUL

PERFECT TRANQUIL LOCATION NEAR GRAND BAZAAR AND BEYAZIT TRAM STOP
part 1

This was my first trip to Istanbul, a city with hundreds of hotels in dozens of interesting neighborhoods.

I was overwhelmed, but stumbled on Hotel Niles in a glowing Frommers review.

Then I found the TurkeyTravelPlanner website and found another endorsement.

TripAdvisor devotees also gave high rankings -- so how could I go wrong?

Thank goodness I picked this hotel -- and reached out to owner Deniz Duyar and manager Kemal Celik a month prior to arriving.

They helped me plan my itinerary, had a museum card waiting for me and answered my specific and quirky questions with ease and professionalism.

When I met them, they were even better in person.

Apple tea was awaiting my weary soul after a 12-hour, 7-time zone flight.

Deniz even walked me up to the T-1 tram station near Beyazit Square and helped me load a transit pass (Niles already had the smart card for me) with some money.

He rode to Sultanahmet Square with me, got me oriented and gave me his cell number.

What a great way of getting oriented after flying halfway around the world.

I usually have trouble adjusting/sleeping the first night, but slumbered like a baby at Niles