THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Beyoglu is a
brief and magical ferry ride across the Golden Horn from the old city’s Eminonu
docks to Karakoy.
The
waterfront area follows the Golden Horn to its mouth off the Bosphorus.
Dozens of
street vendors set up, serving tea, coffee, snacks…or playing solo or in a band
– to earn the tips of locals and visitors.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Karakoy is a
former docklands area that was far off the tourist path and somewhat sketchy.
Now it is
lined with pricey hipster joints open late each night.
There are
lots of nargile joints in this part of Beyoglu.
The food can
range from modern gourmet burgers to old time Turkish street food such as kumpir.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
A durum is
a Turkish wrap that is usually filled with typical doner kebab
ingredients.
This place,
open since 1969, specializes in chicken, lamb and adana.
The wrap is
made from lavash or yufka flatbreads.
Durum is a common
street food in Turkey, especially beloved late at night.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
While more
than a few churches have been converted into mosques in Islamic Turkey, cathedrals,
synagogues and churches – orthodox and modern, do remain.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
In
19th-century, a traditional tram
trundled along the Grande Rue de Pera connecting Taksim Square
Glatasaray and Tunel Square.
The tram was
taken out of service in 1961, replaced by buses.
After Pera
became Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrian zone, the Nostalgic Tram was restored
and revived in 1990.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
The Kılıç Ali Pasha Complex is located in the Tophane neighborhood in Beyoglu.
It consists of a mosque, medrese, hamam, turbe and fountain.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
The Kılıç
Ali Pasha Complex is a mosque complex designed and built between 1580 and
1587.
It was
designed by Mimar Sinan, who at the time was in his 90s.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Travel to
any town in Turkey and you are sure to find a tea garden.
In the
larger cities and touristic regions, tea houses welcome the young and old, as
well as many foreigners.
Tea gardens gained
popularity in the 1950s, especially in Istanbul, and were the place where
families went for their social outings.
This garden
in Beyoglu overlooks the Bosphorus.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Beyoglu
includes a mix of stylish bohemian districts such as Çukurcuma and Cihangir, Galata
and Karaköy.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Beyoglu comes
alive in warmer weather with countless outdoor cafes.
The cuisine,
culture, vibe and atmosphere rivals the best of Paris or New York.
And the fare
costs but a third or half of what it would in those pricy cites.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
The backstreets
of Beyoglu lend themselves to murals and other artsy activity.
Alleys often
have bohemian coffee shops, clubs and little hole in the wall eating/drinking
establishments.
Lower rents
off the beaten path support all kinds of creative shops.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Dondurma
typically includes cream, whipped cream, sugar and salep (ground up tuber of orchid)
and mastic (plant resin).
Two
qualities distinguish Turkish ice cream: hard texture and resistance to
melting, brought on by thickening agents that make it chewy.
Dondurma is
commonly sold from street vendor carts and store fronts.
The mixture
is churned regularly with long-handled paddles to keep it workable.
Vendors
often tease the customer by serving the ice cream cone on a stick, and then
taking away the dondurma with the stick by rotating it around, before finally
giving it to the customer.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Opened in
1876, Çiçek Pasajı is a covered arcade with rows of historic cafes, winehouses
and restaurants.
Following the
Russian Revolution of 1917, many impoverished noble Russian women, including a
Baroness, sold flowers in the arcade, giving the arcade it’s modern Turkish
name of Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage).
After the
restoration of the building in 1988, it was reopened as a galleria of pubs and
restaurants.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
The main
thoroughfare is Istiklal Caddesi running into the neighborhood from Taksim
Square to Tunel.
It is a pedestrian-only mile of shops, cafés,
patisseries, restaurants, pubs and clubs.
It also
features bookshops, theatres, cinemas and art galleries.
Some of
İstiklâl Avenue has a 19th-century metropolitan character.
It is lined
with Art Nouveau and Neoclassical buildings.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
In 1348 the Genoese built Galata Tower, one of the most prominent landmarks of Istanbul.
Pera (Galata) remained under Genoese control until May 29, 1453, when it was
conquered by the Ottomans, along with the rest of the city, in the Siege
of Constantinople.
THE EUROPEAN "NEW TOWN" ACROSS THE GOLDEN HORN
Beyoğlu is
the most active art, entertainment and nightlife center of Istanbul
