“I had little interest in Byzantium as a child,” Mr. Pamuk wrote in “Istanbul.”
“I associated the word with spooky,
bearded, black-robed Greek Orthodox priests, with the aqueducts that still ran
through the city, with Hagia Sophia and the red-brick walls of old churches.”
Legal disputes have kept this patch of waterfront property, where we were
eating lunch, in limbo, resulting in a rare zone of neglect in the heart of the
city.
It’s one of Mr. Pamuk’s favorite places.
“All my childhood was like this,
but will it be like this in 20 years?
No way,” he told me, as we savored the
maritime smells.
He is all but certain that the rapid gentrification of
surrounding neighborhoods will eventually overtake this forgotten field.
-Joshua Hammer
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