“I did my first foreign travel in 1959, when I went to Geneva for the summer with my father, and I didn’t leave Istanbul again until 1982,” Mr. Pamuk told me. “I belong to this city.”
Last fall, I emailed Mr. Pamuk and asked
him if he would take me on a tour of the neighborhoods that shaped his
upbringing and his development as a writer.
After many visits, I wanted to get
beyond the tourist sights and observe the city as he sees it — a place of epic
history and deep personal associations.
Mr. Pamuk readily agreed, and two
months later I met him at his apartment in the affluent Cihangir quarter,
overlooking the Cihangir Mosque, a 19th-century monolith flanked by minarets,
and, beyond it, the Bosporus, the strait that forms the boundary between Europe
and Asia.
-Joshua Hammer
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