With my pack strapped to a mule, we
walked for 45 minutes over the pass to Aremd, Considering this is the closest
village to the country's highest mountain, it is surprisingly free of tourist
trappings.
The Gte d'Omar in Aremd can accommodate 20 or so people, several to
a room.
The facilities are basic, but there is a shower - cold water is free,
hot water costs 10 dirhams (70p).
Fatima, Omar's wife, and her daughter-in-law
bake fresh bread daily and cook delicious tajines - meat and vegetable stews
cooked in earthenware pots with conical lids.
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