JEMAA EL-FNAA (12)

    THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

The square at night is filled with sights, smells, sounds and intrigue.

It’s not the 21^st century.

It would be some point in the ancient history of this trading crossroads.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (11)

   THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Red, purple, orange and yellow illuminate the sunset at Jemaa el-Fnaa.

All the tourist trinkets.

All the tour guide touts.

All the pushy vendors.

Melt away from memory.

You are in photography paradise.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (10)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dusk in Jemaa el-Fnaa is inspiring.

But interesting to nefarious things are likely taking place on the square and all around its fringes.

Or at least that’s the places many short story tellers take you in Marrakech Noir.

Akashic Books published the finely-crafted volume of dark stories, translated from Arabic, French, and Dutch.

http://www.akashicbooks.com/catalog/marrakech-noir-morocco/

JEMAA EL-FNAA (9)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Sunset is a magical time in the Red City.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (8)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Grab a seat at any of the dozens of multi-terraced cafes.

Order a simple tajine or cous cous.

Watch the food vendors assemble like time lapse before your eyes.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (7)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Barbary Macaques are the only primate species endemic to Morocco and Algeria.

The have been categorized as “endangered to extinction.”

It is prohibited to sell or keep them as pets.

Despite the restrictions, Barbary Macaques are used as photo props for tourists, 

JEMAA EL-FNAA (6)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakech.

It was founded in 1147 and entirely rebuilt around 1158.

It cuts a gorgeous figure over the main square, especially when the sun sets behind it.

Enjoy the mosque from the outside – unless you are Muslim, you are not allowed to enter.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (5)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Goat heads seem to be a popular item at the food stalls.

Locals far outnumber tourists at the stalls.

Pick a place that looks crowded with locals and try something.

The prices are so low, you will not be losing much money if you don’t clean your plate.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (4)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Every day of the year.

From dusk till past midnight.

Smoke fills the air.

Grills are filled with meats.

Stews and soups boil and bubble.

Food vendors fill the square.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (3)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

You read about it in the guide books.

You’ve seen it in old movies.

It’s even been depicted in countless cartoons.

But when you are walking and gawking and almost stumble across cobras…it gives one a jolt.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (2)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dozens of cafes have multiple terraces that overlook the main square.

Some are top restaurants favored by wealthy locals.

Many are tourist traps with decent tajines.

A few are once grand, but now faded French-themed dowagers.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (1)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Locals and tourists jam the square from morning till late into the night.

ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO -- 5

FAMOUS FISHING BOATS

The smaller blue boats go out for fishing when the wind is blowing little from north and there are no high waves.

The fish is sold in the port market.

Several market stands grill fresh fin and shellfish and serve them with salad, fries, French bread and beverages to tourists and locals.

--https://www.essaouira.nu

ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO -- 4

FAMOUS FISHING BOATS

By 1950, the port of Essaouira was the most important for Sardines in Morocco.

Also for export of cereals.

Today the port is non-commercial except for fishing and ship maintenance.

The waters are not deep enough for bigger ships.

--https://www.essaouira.nu

ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO -- 3

FAMOUS FISHING BOATS

By 1780, the port was handling almost half of Morocco's international trade. 

Export items included ostrich feathers, almonds, gum arabic, ivory and dried camel skins (which were imported from sub-saharan Africa through the caravan trade.)

The British brought Manchester cotton and tea.

--https://www.essaouira.nu

ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO -- 2

FAMOUS FISHING BOATS

"The port was known as the “Port of Timbuktu ” because most African products for export ended up there.

Sultan Ben Abdellah promoted free trade policies by reducing customs and encouraging the settlement of rich merchants and Jewish people who handled trade with Christians.

A quarter for foreign merchants was also established.

--https://www.essaouira.nu

ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO -- 1

FAMOUS FISHING BOATS

It is said that the port of Essaouira was founded by the Sultan Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah to punish the city of Agadir, where rebellions against the leading power took place.

Soon after its foundation 1770 until the first half of the nineteenth century, the port was the most important trading port between Europe, Africa and the Americas. 

Mogador is the old port of Morocco but when Casablanca grew up to the North and Agadir to the South, it lost its status.

--https://www.essaouira.nu

MOROCCO HAS BEEN A LIFELONG DREAM

RIAD TAGHAZOUT IS HELPING MAKE MARRAKESH A REALITY

The fine folks at Riad Taghazout have answered my every question, leading up to my booking for a week-plus in their well-located, budget-friendly accommodations.

Their website could use a little better English translation, but that’s part of the fun of travel:

Riad TAGHAZOUT is a good example of traditional only styles moroccan accomodation right in the lentre of beautiful Medina of marrakech real close to the famous DJAMAA el FANAA square and the souk (3m walle) and 5 m walking from the koutoubia, Palais BADIAA and PALAIS BAHIA.

http://www.riad-taghazout.com/