JEMAA EL-FNAA (12)

    THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

The square at night is filled with sights, smells, sounds and intrigue.

It’s not the 21^st century.

It would be some point in the ancient history of this trading crossroads.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (11)

   THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Red, purple, orange and yellow illuminate the sunset at Jemaa el-Fnaa.

All the tourist trinkets.

All the tour guide touts.

All the pushy vendors.

Melt away from memory.

You are in photography paradise.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (10)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dusk in Jemaa el-Fnaa is inspiring.

But interesting to nefarious things are likely taking place on the square and all around its fringes.

Or at least that’s the places many short story tellers take you in Marrakech Noir.

Akashic Books published the finely-crafted volume of dark stories, translated from Arabic, French, and Dutch.

http://www.akashicbooks.com/catalog/marrakech-noir-morocco/

JEMAA EL-FNAA (9)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Sunset is a magical time in the Red City.

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 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Grab a seat at any of the dozens of multi-terraced cafes.

Order a simple tajine or cous cous.

Watch the food vendors assemble like time lapse before your eyes.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (7)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Barbary Macaques are the only primate species endemic to Morocco and Algeria.

The have been categorized as “endangered to extinction.”

It is prohibited to sell or keep them as pets.

Despite the restrictions, Barbary Macaques are used as photo props for tourists, 

JEMAA EL-FNAA (6)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakech.

It was founded in 1147 and entirely rebuilt around 1158.

It cuts a gorgeous figure over the main square, especially when the sun sets behind it.

Enjoy the mosque from the outside – unless you are Muslim, you are not allowed to enter.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (5)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Goat heads seem to be a popular item at the food stalls.

Locals far outnumber tourists at the stalls.

Pick a place that looks crowded with locals and try something.

The prices are so low, you will not be losing much money if you don’t clean your plate.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (4)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Every day of the year.

From dusk till past midnight.

Smoke fills the air.

Grills are filled with meats.

Stews and soups boil and bubble.

Food vendors fill the square.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (3)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

You read about it in the guide books.

You’ve seen it in old movies.

It’s even been depicted in countless cartoons.

But when you are walking and gawking and almost stumble across cobras…it gives one a jolt.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (2)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dozens of cafes have multiple terraces that overlook the main square.

Some are top restaurants favored by wealthy locals.

Many are tourist traps with decent tajines.

A few are once grand, but now faded French-themed dowagers.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (1)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Locals and tourists jam the square from morning till late into the night.

DAR TAJINE

THE ONLY AUTHENTIC MOROCCAN FOOD IN SOUTH FLORIDA

Dar Tajine is the only place in the southern half of Florida serving true home cooked Moroccan food.

There have been maybe a half dozen Miami/South Beach places -- pretending to be Moroccan but really being nightclubs with lousy, overpriced food -- that have come and gone.

Dar Tajine is the real deal. Worth the nearly two hours it takes us to drive from Miami to a strip mall near Sunrise and University in Plantation.

Our meal today was under $50 including a tip north of 20%. It was an authentic Moroccan feast of:

Hot mint tea. A tiny bit sweet, but tasted just like what I've had on the road to Ouarzazate.

Lentil soup with tomatoes, garlic, onion -- perfect, less buttery than Indian dal makhani -- tasted like a stop at a Berber place in the High Atlas.

Olives, harissa and garlic sauce to go with think Moroccan bread plus salad -- good as anything I've had at La Mamounia.

Chicken Bastilla. Baked layers of thin pastry stuffed with chicken strips, roasted almonds, eggs and herbs -- covered in sugar and cinnamon. Like boneless bird dessert. First time I've had it with chicken instead of pigeon. Took me back to the poolside courtyard restaurants of the norther medina in Marrakech.

Chicken tagine -- a half bird with olives, preserved lemon, broth and a separate yellow rice. Reminded me of my first meal on a terrace watching the sun set over Jemaa el-Fnaa. Missing the French-influenced fries and carrots to soak up the heavenly broth -- but a spectacular and generous half bird for under $13.

A selection of authentic desserts featuring honey and nuts. Old school flavor like the hole in the wall I always visit when in the old souks of Essaouira.

Arabic coffee -- much more fragrant than Turkish coffee, with notes of cardamom and other spices. A generous portion, similar to what I've gotten at an oasis on the way to Aït Benhaddou.

Five stars all the way. Generous portions. Great ambiance.

Wheelchair accessible. Plenty of regular height tables. Tasteful gift shop with Moroccan products at the entrance.

Dar Tajine, 8281 W Sunrise Blvd, Plantation FL 33322  954-306-2447

https://dar-tajine.com