THE LIGHT OF ISTANBUL

MAGICAL

How else do you describe your first day in Istanbul?

You are exhausted from a 12 hour flight in coach...and a 7 hour time difference.

But you walk...from Beyazit to Sultanahmet Square.

You continue past Sirkeci Station -- where the Orient Express used to stop.

You make it to Eminonu and think of Orhan Pamuk's books with chapters that involve the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the ferry docks where they meet.

You press on, denying sleep...for a balik ekmek from a gleaming Ottoman-adorned boat.

You board a ferry (you can cross from Europe to Asia for less than 2 bucks U.S. dollars).

You look back at the new Galata Bridge.

The restaurants on the lower lever are tourist traps, but colorful.

The fisherman that line the top level.

Are they there for a fresh balik, or just enjoying one of the world's most magical views in their own hometown?

You hold still, the water is churning like crazy under the hurried ferry to Karikoy.

You gaze up at the New Mosque. Only in Istanbul could something that broke ground more than 400 years ago be considered the "new" thing.

The sun is Halloween orange.

You have slept only 3 of the last 30 hours.

But you are the luckiest person on earth.

THE DUYAR FAMILY: A COMMITMENT TO HOSPITALITY

AT THE DERSAADET HOTEL ISTANBUL AND ITS SISTER PROPERTY

I have yet to meet Deniz Duyar, but we already are friends.

Despite the difficulties experience in Turkey on July 15, he soon emailed me to assure me that I would be safe in Istanbul during my upcoming visit to its incomparable museums, landmarks, streets, culture, food, history, bazaars and much more.

But what we really e-chatted about was good local food, away from the tourist traps.

I thought he might follow up with a bulleted list of restaurant names, addresses and types of food.

What he sent was a yet-to-be-published soulful narratives of some of his favorite haunts and why.

What a great response to a first-time visitor.

I will be staying at his family's Hotel Niles.

But I might spend a few days at the Ottoman mansion sister property, the Dersaadet -- shown above in its architectural splendor and below with its rooftop garden showing of unmatched views of the Sea or Marmara.

http://www.dersaadethotel.com/index.htm

WHY I LOVE TO STAY IN FAMILY-OWNED HOTELS

THE TRUE MEANING OF PERSONAL SERVICE

This is a picture of the Hotel Niles in Istanbul.

It's in the old city, a less than 5 minute's walk from the Grand Bazaar.

It has a rooftop terrace with views of the Marmara Sea.

It is the darling of Frommers, Fodors, Trip Advisor and other world-leading publications and online guides.

It is easy to see why.

I recently booked my maiden voyage to Turkey.

Business will take me to Istanbul, but I don't want to stay in a chain business hotel.

After seeing the rave reviews, I reached out to the Hotel Niles.

I used the much-dreaded "info@" email.

I say this because when I ask a unique question via the "info@" email to property flagged by a giant chain, I probably get zero response about 25% of the time, an auto generated equally worthless blanket response about 25% and a far to vague, laundry list of bulletted FAQ-style answers in the remaining 50% of responses.

Hotel Niles is different.

In fewer than 24 hours, on a weekend, less than a week after a tragic and jolting incident at Ataturk International Airport, I got a detailed response from info@hotelniles.com

A Mr. Kemal Çelik addressed my specific concerns about my first full day falling on a national holiday and how that might impact public transit, bazaar and museum opening hours, etc.

This was not a standard "can I check in early" or "can you make sure some extra pillows are in the room" question.

And it received a signed, far above standard chain property response.

I look forward to making Hotel Niles my home away from home.

I hope my readers do the same.

We must reward family businesses that deliver outstanding personal service. 

http://www.hotelniles.com 

 (rooftop terrace at Hotel Niles, on the European side of Istanbul)