OTTOMAN HOUSES NEAR CHORA CHURCH

COLORFUL WOODEN HOUSES BY CHORA CHURCH

Istanbul is still a magical place.

But it is losing many of its old wooden houses to fires, neglect and over development.

Thankfully, some architects, designers and history buffs are buying and restoring the great Ottoman-style homes.

FOUNTAIN OF AHMED III

OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP

In Sultanahmet Square, Old Town, Istanbul, Turkey.

By the way, entire Istanbul and Turkey trip was safest I've felt in years.

Go visit, the people are warm and everything is safe as hometown USA.

GRAND BAZAAR, ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Kapalı Çarşı, or Covered Market

Yes, sadly, at least half the nearly 4,000 stalls are aimed at tourists.

But the Grand Bazaar is a must see.

Go for the history.

Stop to have tea -- Turkish or apple.

Bargain with a salesperson -- the gold and silver places generally charge by weight, with a very small mark up for the craftsmanship.

Check out turkeytravelplanner.com for more insights.

RAIN DOESN'T DAMPEN SPIRITS IN HISTORIC PERA

ISTANBUL, CITY OF FABLES AND MYTHS

A light drizzle on a warm day just provides an excuse for more baklava and tea in a gold-rimmed, tulip-shaped glass on pedestrian-oriented Istiklal Caddesi

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

WALKING TO THE NOSTALGIC TRAM

The tram runs from Tünel to Taksim Square on Istiklal Caddesi

THE DUYAR FAMILY: A COMMITMENT TO HOSPITALITY

AT THE DERSAADET HOTEL ISTANBUL AND ITS SISTER PROPERTY

I have yet to meet Deniz Duyar, but we already are friends.

Despite the difficulties experience in Turkey on July 15, he soon emailed me to assure me that I would be safe in Istanbul during my upcoming visit to its incomparable museums, landmarks, streets, culture, food, history, bazaars and much more.

But what we really e-chatted about was good local food, away from the tourist traps.

I thought he might follow up with a bulleted list of restaurant names, addresses and types of food.

What he sent was a yet-to-be-published soulful narratives of some of his favorite haunts and why.

What a great response to a first-time visitor.

I will be staying at his family's Hotel Niles.

But I might spend a few days at the Ottoman mansion sister property, the Dersaadet -- shown above in its architectural splendor and below with its rooftop garden showing of unmatched views of the Sea or Marmara.

http://www.dersaadethotel.com/index.htm

WHY I LOVE TO STAY IN FAMILY-OWNED HOTELS

THE TRUE MEANING OF PERSONAL SERVICE

This is a picture of the Hotel Niles in Istanbul.

It's in the old city, a less than 5 minute's walk from the Grand Bazaar.

It has a rooftop terrace with views of the Marmara Sea.

It is the darling of Frommers, Fodors, Trip Advisor and other world-leading publications and online guides.

It is easy to see why.

I recently booked my maiden voyage to Turkey.

Business will take me to Istanbul, but I don't want to stay in a chain business hotel.

After seeing the rave reviews, I reached out to the Hotel Niles.

I used the much-dreaded "info@" email.

I say this because when I ask a unique question via the "info@" email to property flagged by a giant chain, I probably get zero response about 25% of the time, an auto generated equally worthless blanket response about 25% and a far to vague, laundry list of bulletted FAQ-style answers in the remaining 50% of responses.

Hotel Niles is different.

In fewer than 24 hours, on a weekend, less than a week after a tragic and jolting incident at Ataturk International Airport, I got a detailed response from info@hotelniles.com

A Mr. Kemal Çelik addressed my specific concerns about my first full day falling on a national holiday and how that might impact public transit, bazaar and museum opening hours, etc.

This was not a standard "can I check in early" or "can you make sure some extra pillows are in the room" question.

And it received a signed, far above standard chain property response.

I look forward to making Hotel Niles my home away from home.

I hope my readers do the same.

We must reward family businesses that deliver outstanding personal service. 

http://www.hotelniles.com 

 (rooftop terrace at Hotel Niles, on the European side of Istanbul)