BERBER VILLAGES OF THE HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO, NORTH AFRICA -- Part 7

IMAGES BY STEVE WRIGHT, WORDS BY LISA SYKES/THE GUARDIAN

Descending through the sweet-smelling pines and gnarled junipers we saw the summit of Toubkal in the distance, a faint triangular point against the blue sky. 

Below were well-kept terraces of fruit trees covered in spring blossom. Boulders and scree covered the valley floor, the aftermath of dangerous flash floods that had been caused by summer storms.

Later, the first star of the evening, the Etoile de berger or shepherd's star, rose in the sky and, on cue, dark blobs on the mountainside began moving across and down the slopes.

The flocks were coming home.

BERBER VILLAGES OF THE HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO, NORTH AFRICA -- Part 6

IMAGES BY STEVE WRIGHT, WORDS BY LISA SYKES/THE GUARDIAN

On my first day of walking we climbed to the tizi (mountain pass) that gave us a spectacular view into the neighbouring Tacheddirt valley. 

Walking at a steady pace that still left me breathless on the steepest parts, we saw few other tourists. 

It was quiet in early March, the beginning of the season in the High Atlas, but the sun was already strong, burning my face before I realised it.

In the late afternoons, the temperature began to fall, and by the evening I was wearing two fleeces, jacket, thermal underwear, hat and gloves.

BERBER VILLAGES OF THE HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO, NORTH AFRICA -- Part 5

IMAGES BY STEVE WRIGHT, WORDS BY LISA SYKES/THE GUARDIAN

With my pack strapped to a mule, we walked for 45 minutes over the pass to Aremd, Considering this is the closest village to the country's highest mountain, it is surprisingly free of tourist trappings. 

The Gte d'Omar in Aremd can accommodate 20 or so people, several to a room. 

The facilities are basic, but there is a shower - cold water is free, hot water costs 10 dirhams (70p). 

Fatima, Omar's wife, and her daughter-in-law bake fresh bread daily and cook delicious tajines - meat and vegetable stews cooked in earthenware pots with conical lids.

BERBER VILLAGES OF THE HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO, NORTH AFRICA -- Part 4

IMAGES BY STEVE WRIGHT, WORDS BY LISA SYKES/THE GUARDIAN

My plan was to spend two days hiking in the High Atlas mountains, then return to explore Marrakech for an evening and morning before the flight home on Sunday afternoon.

Topping out at over 4,000 metres, the Toubkal is the country's highest massif, although I was only trekking at around the 2,000m. 

The treeline peters out at the village of Imlil at around 1,500m, where there's a clutch of small hotels, cafés and shops selling everything from Mars bars to guttering.

Imlil is an hour and a half by road from Marrakech, the last 20 minutes on a swaying mountain dirt track clinging to the contours. 

The villagers have voted not to have it paved as they like their semi-isolation at the head of the valley and are worried about being inundated by Moroccan tourists in their cars.