THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

In the evenings, I hustled along after dinner to catch the last moments of the golden hour, to take sunset photos from Miradouro da Graca/Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen -- enhanced by a public patio where snacks and drinks are served from a kiosk.     

In the evening, my neighbor’s sweet cat would come by to be petted and the neighborhood beagle would beg for snacks and affection.

And each night, I slept in a roughly 600 square foot space. A unit large enough to live in year-round.

https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/serra-vidal-apartment.html?auth_success=1

THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

About half the shopkeepers and small restaurant owners spoke English – the others put up with my pathetic Portuguese, which sounds a lot like a so-so Spanish speaker grasping for cognates.

In the morning, sunshine bathed the neighborhood and I rushed from Backyard Nest past the locals to take photos of all of Lisbon stretched out below below Miradouro da Senhora do Monte – the highest point in all of Lisboa.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

Graca has places to sit outside and have a drink – be it strong coffee or smooth wine.

I had some of the best seafood, at a great price, in all my travels – at places a quarter mile walk from my holiday apartment.

There are clothing shops – used and new – convenience stores, quirky stores – virtually all mom and pop.

It soothes the soul to patronize authentic shops.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

Graca is so much more authentic than the heavily-touristed zones.

Footsteps from the Backyard Nest, there were nearly a half dozen family-owned bakeries – with sweet and savory items.

There were small, quirky grocery stores and fruit stands, as well as a Pingo Doce – the major supermarket – behind the façade of a beautiful old movie theater and stocked with every item you could ever want.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

I spent far more time in Graca than I would have thought before arriving.

It really only has a few true tourist attractions – a pair of unmatched lookout points – a couple historic churches and by extension (though shared with Alfama) the famed Mercado de Santa Clara flea market and the national pantheon.

But Graca kept calling my name.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

The Backyard Nest is footsteps from the famed 28 historic tram – which links you to all the museums and historic places in the city.

There’s also a small bus that covers the same route.

When tourists clog the tram and there’s a wait, it’s a good backup plan to use the mini bus.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

The Backyard Nest is one story, so no footsteps sound from above.

It has just one common wall, so again, nice and quiet.

There's a nice outdoor area behind a gate.

I found it fabulous for drinking local, very inexpensive wine on at the clean and lovely table.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

The Backyard Nest is one of a half dozen or so in a row of old and quaint buildings.

The other neighbors seem to be year-round owners.

They are friendly (though my Portuguese is horrible) and quiet at night. 

You also will be visited by a sweetheart friendly beagle.

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THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

Backyard Nest enjoys an amazing amount of natural light, but very easy to use roll-down blinds allow you to turn the room dark as night for sleeping or napping.

The private street is gated.

The gate was never locked, but it gave an added sense of privacy and security.

Although Graca and the specific area the Nest is located felt so safe that I probably could have left the door unlocked.

https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/serra-vidal-apartment.html?auth_success=1 

THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

The Backyard Nest kitchen is perfect -- full sized fridge, washing machine, dishwasher, toaster, coffee maker, full range and stove top, very nice plates, flatware, glasses.

The bathroom is compact, but the shower tube doesn't leak at all and the warm water is fast to arrive and runs endlessly.

The bed is firm and comfortable.

https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/serra-vidal-apartment.html?auth_success=1 

THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

Graca has great restaurants, bakeries, plazas and best of all -- the two best overlooks in a city filled with views down its steep hills onto the river and landscape.

I have stayed at hundreds of hotels, motels, B&Bs, inns, apartments and quirky lodging.

Backyard Nest ranks atop any I have visited -- via Booking.com or any other service.

You truly have everything you would ever need.

https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/serra-vidal-apartment.html?auth_success=1

THE BACKYARD NEST GRACA, LISBON, PORTUGAL

THE PERFECT HOLIDAY APARTMENT IN THE PERFECT LOCATION

The Backyard Nest looked perfect online, but being my first visit to Lisbon, I was a little hesitant -- simply because the main tourist attractions are not in Graca and it is not among the top 6 or so neighborhoods outlined in the guidebooks.

After visiting, I not only urge people to stay in Graca -- but I'm also seriously thinking of buying a place in the livable, down to earth and historic neighborhood.

I spent way more time than I expected in Graca.

https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/serra-vidal-apartment.html?auth_success=1