ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 9

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR Ojen, situated in the El Juanar Valley and surrounded by orchards, welcomed its first human settlers during the Stone Age. Casares is picture postcard village with a population of just three thousand and the view from the approach that is more breathtaking than the vista of Gibraltar one sees on the costal road on the way. Jubrique is a place where one might spot a working burro or an old building adorned with a colorful bullfight poster that captivates the traveler, its bright colors almost as beautiful as the wild poppies in the nearby valley. Steve Wright is quite enchanted by Spanish-speaking destinations from Central and South America, the Caribbean and of course, mother Spain. His wife is an Americans with Disabilities Act expert who has used a wheelchair for 35 years.

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 8

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR Zahara de la Sierra is arguably the crown jewel of Andalucia’s white towns situated on mountainsides. Even from a distance, the remains of its 13th century Moorish fortress hypnotically draw one’s gaze. Explore the town’s narrow streets, then relax with a cold Cruzcampo at cafe in a plaza by the cathedral. Istan, founded in 1448 as a Moorish outpost, boasts winding streets and whitewashed houses that reflect its colorful history, which was rich with viniculture and silk production. Yet to be overrun by tourism, it lends itself to quiet exploration. Gaucin is where a castle’s origins date to Roman times and eagles are drawn to the structure, frequently riding the up-draughts above the towers. Visit this charming town on a clear day and you’ll be treated to views of the Rif Mountains of Northern Africa.

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 7

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR To get a true taste of Andalucia, jump in the rental car and follow any one of the dozens of looping trails that take you through the pueblos blancos, the white cities so named because of the postcard-perfect whitewashed walls. Every guidebook has a map, so don’t worry if you get lost. Getting lost takes you off the beaten track to towns devoid of tourists but rich in local flavor with traditional casas with iron windows overflowing with fresh flowers. Sample fresh game meat, jamon, queso and gazpacho washed down with sherry or fino from nearby Jerez. Most white towns are terraced, with the streets between one level or the other too steep for wheelers. But be patient and drive around the charming towns until you find the perfect plaza to park in and roll out among the tiny sun drenched outdoor cafes. Favorite pueblos blancos include: TOMORROW -- Zahara de la Sierra, Istan & Guacin

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 6

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR Malaga doesn’t get the fanfare of its sister cities, but it has much more than the largest airport and supply of rental cars with automatic transmission in Southern Spain. Spend at least a day in the birthplace of Picasso strolling the streets, exploring the plazas and savoring fresh grilled fish at a beachside chiringuito. Located in the heart of the old port city, the Picasso Museum is a work of art itself – a 16th century building with a stunning architectural mix of Mudejar and Renaissance elements. An accessible walkway also takes visitors through an archaeological roll past Phoenician, Roman and Moorish remains dating back to the seventh century B.C. The museum itself provides a glimpse into the private life of the master artist, with more than 200 paintings, drawings, sculpture, ceramics, and graphics that were given to family members – many never on public view before. The museum is completely barrier-free. Near the Picasso Museum, in Plaza Obisbo, is the 16th-century Renaissance Malaga cathedral. Some crude but functional ramps provide access into the awe-inspiring grand cathedral that survived damage during the Spanish Civil War. Down by the beach, the paseo maritimo has miles of accessible walkways, with plenty of access ramps down to the beach. Be sure to eat fresh fish – be it deep fried are grilled over charcoal right on sand – at a chiringuito. These little beachside bars are an integral part of life on the Costa del Sol.

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 5

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR Christopher Columbus rests here in an ornate tomb held high by four giant figures. The beautiful Giralda Tower, not really accessible because the ramps inside were built for horses and are incredibly steep, shines bright day and night. Along the banks of the Rio Guadalquivir, one can see the simple 13th century Moorish beauty of the Torre del Oro – so named because it once was clad in golden tiles. Further up the east bank of the river lies the Corrida de Toros, Sevilla’s historic bull ring and perpetual rival to Ronda’s as the true home of Andalucia’s most famous sport. Here, the ghosts of matadors Manolete and Joselito still thrill to the cheers of the crowds. Whether you think the pastime cruel or culturally iconic, an inexpensive tour cuts a wheelchair-accessible pathway through a fascinating small museum and onto the hard packed dirt surface of the ring itself. For a stroll free of crumbling sidewalks and maniacal motorcyclists, enjoy the pedestrian mallway that is Calle Sierpes – named so because it meanders slightly like the body of a serpent. Colorful awnings help calm the sun high above and the street is lined with book stores and places to get a good cup of coffee or sweet treat.

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 4

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR Sevilla, to many a poet, priest and pedestrian, IS Andalucia. Speaking of the pedestrian experience, it can be a bit challenging for wheelers because of narrow sidewalks favored by speeding motorcyclists and teeth-rattling cobblestones in the pleasant Santa Cruz district. Four of Sevilla’s crown jewels – The Real Alcazar, the Cathedral, the bull ring and Calle Sierpes are very accessible. The Real Alcazar has elevators that allow disabled visitors to explore its corridors. Listen carefully and you can hear the many stories this royal palace has to tell. Tales of its origin as a Moorish fortress centuries before the first millennia, of its transformation into an opulent palace by Pedro the Cruel, of its reincarnation through Gothic elements added in the Middle Ages. Sevilla’s Cathedral is bigger than St Peter’s in Rome, with five lofty naves and a staggering main altar nearly 120 feet tall. Follow the signs to the accessible entrance and take advantage of the barrier-free restroom and gift shop filled with photo books in English. Once inside, marvel at the altar covered in carved statues and entirely coated in gold – a remnant of a nearly two century monopoly that Sevilla enjoyed in trading with the New World for precious metals and other goods. TOMORROW -- SEVILLA PART 2

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 3

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR To know Cadiz, you must roll through the streets in this city, the oldest in Western Christendom. Peer into courtyards ornamented with Arabic tiles and you can almost picture Phoenician merchants, Berber spice traders, and sailors readying for ocean voyages to the New World. Despite its age, Cadiz is an amazingly compact and accessible city. The key is finding centrally located underground parking – Plaza San Antonio has a great one -- with accessible spaces and an elevator up to the grand plaza where it is located. Cadiz is a city of plazas where you can walk and roll from port to beach to fortress in a town surrounded by water on three sides. Cadiz is a civilized place with flower markets and an old world pace that means most shops close on Sunday.

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR -- part 2

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR We found a fabulous accessible villa near the sleepy village of San Pedro de Alcantara, the glitzy yacht hub of Puerto Banus and the two main east-west roads. Ronda, with its famous bull ring and bridge, was just up the hill. Actually, the journey to Ronda is up a twisting, turning, spectacular serpentine road. Perched in the mountains over the River Guadalevín, Ronda enchants like a town from an ancient fairytale. Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles fell under its spell, marveling at the natural beauty as well as the captivating ruins of Celtish, Roman and Moorish origin. Right next to the fabled bull ring, a city-operated surface parking lot is convenient and accessible, if not beautiful. Bull ring tours are cheap and the ground level is wheelchair-accessible – we even wheeled out onto the playing field. The Parador, an historic inn, has an outstanding accessible restroom. The pathway around it provides unparalleled barrier-free views of the valley, the gorge and the stunning old bridge that spans it. Be sure to look at all the houses that hug the rim and spill over and into the gorge with terrace after whitewashed terrace of dining and living space.

ANDALUCIA BY WHEELCHAIR

By Steve Wright



Andalucia is at once cool mountain air and steamy Mediterranean Sea, fabled landmark cities and little towns you’ve never heard of, home of both ancient Islamic architecture and endless modern faux villa compounds. Southern Spain, the land of stunning vistas that Moors and Christians fought over through the ages, is now being taken over by the working class British vacation package and the upper middle class Brit. second home in the sun craze. While its sprawl is consuming the land, the British golf course and condo invasion may be the best thing that ever happened to Andalusian accessibility. All that modern building might not be pretty, but it is providing thousands of rental units with level entrances, wide hallways, large showers, accessible patios and a wealth of other wheelchair accommodations not found in centuries-old dwellings. Because one could spend a year exploring Spain’s largest autonomous region and not be bored of its rich culture and contrasts, it’s best to plan a stay of at least two weeks. It’s also best to find one very accessible place to sleep and focus on an area east or west of Malaga. Otherwise, your 16-hour daytrip will involve eight hours of driving.