JEMAA EL-FNAA (12)

    THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

The square at night is filled with sights, smells, sounds and intrigue.

It’s not the 21^st century.

It would be some point in the ancient history of this trading crossroads.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (11)

   THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Red, purple, orange and yellow illuminate the sunset at Jemaa el-Fnaa.

All the tourist trinkets.

All the tour guide touts.

All the pushy vendors.

Melt away from memory.

You are in photography paradise.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (10)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dusk in Jemaa el-Fnaa is inspiring.

But interesting to nefarious things are likely taking place on the square and all around its fringes.

Or at least that’s the places many short story tellers take you in Marrakech Noir.

Akashic Books published the finely-crafted volume of dark stories, translated from Arabic, French, and Dutch.

http://www.akashicbooks.com/catalog/marrakech-noir-morocco/

JEMAA EL-FNAA (9)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Sunset is a magical time in the Red City.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (8)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Grab a seat at any of the dozens of multi-terraced cafes.

Order a simple tajine or cous cous.

Watch the food vendors assemble like time lapse before your eyes.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (7)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Barbary Macaques are the only primate species endemic to Morocco and Algeria.

The have been categorized as “endangered to extinction.”

It is prohibited to sell or keep them as pets.

Despite the restrictions, Barbary Macaques are used as photo props for tourists, 

JEMAA EL-FNAA (6)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakech.

It was founded in 1147 and entirely rebuilt around 1158.

It cuts a gorgeous figure over the main square, especially when the sun sets behind it.

Enjoy the mosque from the outside – unless you are Muslim, you are not allowed to enter.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (5)

  THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Goat heads seem to be a popular item at the food stalls.

Locals far outnumber tourists at the stalls.

Pick a place that looks crowded with locals and try something.

The prices are so low, you will not be losing much money if you don’t clean your plate.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (4)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Every day of the year.

From dusk till past midnight.

Smoke fills the air.

Grills are filled with meats.

Stews and soups boil and bubble.

Food vendors fill the square.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (3)

 THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

You read about it in the guide books.

You’ve seen it in old movies.

It’s even been depicted in countless cartoons.

But when you are walking and gawking and almost stumble across cobras…it gives one a jolt.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (2)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Dozens of cafes have multiple terraces that overlook the main square.

Some are top restaurants favored by wealthy locals.

Many are tourist traps with decent tajines.

A few are once grand, but now faded French-themed dowagers.

JEMAA EL-FNAA (1)

THE TOWN SQUARE OF MARRAKECH

Locals and tourists jam the square from morning till late into the night.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (13)

 ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

The souk, set among fading grand apartment buildings, is a blur of activity from dawn to dusk.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (12)

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Colors take on a magical tone as dusk approaches over the market in the chilly Mediterranean spring.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (11)

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Deliveries are more likely to arrive via mule or horse carriage than by truck or van.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (10)

 ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Pathways are so narrow, you have to watch out – lest you knock over the bounty on display.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (9)

 ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Tourists are rarely spotted at the locals market.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (8)

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Flour, water, salt, heat and love + bake till heavenly.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (7)

  ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Give us our daily bread.

This is a whole grain pita-type bread.

It is baked in a fiery oven streetside.

PRODUCE AND MEAT MARKET SOUK (6)

 ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

We can attest to the deliciousness of the hot out of the oven bread in Alexandria.

Our trip to Egypt was for business.

But the side trip to Alexandria on the weekend was a gift from our loving wife of a third of a century.

Today is our birthday.