BEYOGLU BACKSTREETS

Istanbul, Turkey

Orhan Pamuk's Nobel-winning literature so often finds its characters on the backstreets of Istanbul.

Unfortunately, a lot of the old backstreets are being replaced with modern development.

We stumbled across this grand old vacant building just a few paces from İstiklâl Caddesi, the pedestrian spine that connects Karikoy to Taksim.

Hopefully, it will be renovated and re-energized...rather than stripped and razed.

ÜSKÜDAR -- CAFE-LINED STREET

ASIAN SIDE OF BOSPHORUS, ISTANBUL, TURKEY

Yes, the most famous mosques, Topkapi, Ayasofya, Sultanahmet Square, Grand Bazaar and other tourist-friendly places all are on the European side of the Bosphorus.

But if you are in Istanbul for more than three days -- and no one should visit for less than a week to 10 days -- go to the Asian side.

The cost for the ferry is barely more than $1 USD.

The ride is amazing, with views of some of the most important buildings in the world.

Then you arrive in Asia.  It feels the same, looks the same -- though a lot more secular than, say, Fatih on the Eastern side.

Üsküdar is very much worth visiting.