We stood in the terraced
garden of a mosque, gazing over the landmarks of Istanbul — the red roofs of
Cihangir, the 13th-century Galata Tower, one of the few surviving traces of
Byzantium.
We had been walking for more than four hours, across half a dozen
neighborhoods, peeling away Istanbul’s tourist-friendly facade to expose the
complex fabric beneath it.
“That’s the beauty of living here,” Mr. Pamuk told
me.
Then we descended along steep cobblestone alleys leading to the Ataturk Bridge,
beginning the long journey home.
-Joshua Hammer
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