PURE SAFE URBAN MOBILITY GENIUS

ILLUMINATED CROSSWALK STRIPS IN DOWNTOWN MEDELLIN

Crosswalk edges light up neon green to tell pedestrians it is time to cross safely.

Most of these are in La Candelaria Medellin Colombia — the congested and chaotic centro.

Alternately, the edge of crosswalks in the urban core light up neon bright red — to signal pedestrians that it is not safe to cross.

The red-green “walk” system helps combat the ambient noise confusion created by motorcycles, cars and booming music.

HOTEL EL MARQUÉS DE MANGA, CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

INCREDIBLE VALUE, GOURMET BREAKFAST, ATTENTIVE STAFF

IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION IN VIBRANT CARTAGENA

Hotel de Marques de Manga is locked with a high gate for security. I left very early and came back after midnight -- and never waited more than 10 seconds for the staff to buzz me past the gate.

The value is amazing. I paid about 40 USD per day for a spacious modern room, a great support staff, a free gourmet breakfast, free WIFI in room and on property, very clean pool and a location close to the action but quiet enough to sleep.

I will return for sure. 

HOTEL EL MARQUÉS DE MANGA, CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

INCREDIBLE VALUE, GOURMET BREAKFAST, ATTENTIVE STAFF

IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION IN VIBRANT CARTAGENA

Hotel de Marques de Manga is within 5 minutes walking distance of the best grocery store in the city, several pharmacies and some nice mom and pop restaurants and shops.

Getsemani is a 15 minute walk over a bridge.

The Walled City and its Colonial Architecture and tourist attractions, is a 25 minute maximum.

The typical Uber ride to Getsemani was 3 USD with tip. To the Old City -- about 4 USD with tip.

The hotel also is close enough to walk to the chaotic, vibrant and fantastic Mercado de Bazurto -- where all the top chefs shop early for the freshest seafood, tropical fruit and more.

HOTEL EL MARQUÉS DE MANGA, CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

INCREDIBLE VALUE, GOURMET BREAKFAST, ATTENTIVE STAFF

IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION IN VIBRANT CARTAGENA

Hotel de Marques de Manga is great about closing the pool at 8 p.m. -- so no pool party noises disturb your sleep. 

It might want to think about signs specifying the common areas and gym equipment are closed from 9 p.m. to 9 a.m. to let guests sleep.

Crews were rebuilding the room on the floor below mine. 

When I routinely came back from lunch for a pool plunge and nap to avoid the most extreme heat -- it was tough to rest because of the construction noises. 

But I get it, the work has to take place sometime and midday is preferable to overnight or predawn.

Again, I'm a light sleeper and these are very minor suggestions to improve a place that is already very close to 10 out of 10 stars.

HOTEL EL MARQUÉS DE MANGA, CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

INCREDIBLE VALUE, GOURMET BREAKFAST, ATTENTIVE STAFF

IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION IN VIBRANT CARTAGENA

There was a fried food festival at the foot of the nearby San Felipe Fort.

On 3 of my six nights, the festival played very loud music past midnight -- even though the festival was advertised as closing at midnight.

The noise traveled over a small body of water and I could hear it in the room despite a white noise machine and ear plugs.

It's not Hotel de Marques de Manga's fault that Cartagena likes to party hard and until the wee hours. 

But perhaps when it comes time for renovations, soundproofing could be done.

Each pod of room is built over a mini lobby with seating etc. 

Mine had the weights/gym equipment. 

Sound echoed from this common area right up to my sole interior-facing window.

HOTEL EL MARQUÉS DE MANGA, CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

INCREDIBLE VALUE, GOURMET BREAKFAST, ATTENTIVE STAFF

IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION IN VIBRANT CARTAGENA

My room at Hotel de Marques de Manga was quite spacious with good lighting and power outlets near the bed.

In the reception area, they sell water, soda, local beers and convenience items at a very fair price.

The pool is not large, but it is kept sparkling clean and is a fabulous place to take a refreshing plunge when midday heat is 100 degrees.

There's also a lounge chair area with plenty of fresh towels.

The property is in a sleepy neighborhood of homes and apartments -- no nearby clubs or bars to make noise.

HOTEL EL MARQUÉS DE MANGA, CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

INCREDIBLE VALUE, GOURMET BREAKFAST, ATTENTIVE STAFF

IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION IN VIBRANT CARTAGENA

The staff at Hotel de Marques de Manga is outstanding.

They answered several questions before my stay -- suggesting places to eat in Manga and in nearby Getsemani and in the Old Walled City.

There is hot water.

This is a rarity in Cartagena, even at fairly costly properties.

The bed was firm and comfy -- another plus as Colombians are known to favor cement hard beds.

The breakfast was amazing. 

Dozens of fresh foods to choose from -- with an emphasis on local breads, arepas, juices and tropical fruits.

HOTEL BOUTIQUE CASA FARALLONES

QUIRKY COMFORT WITHIN GREAT VALUE CONFINES

IN THE HEART OF CALI, COLOMBIA

On check out, Hotel Boutique Casa Farallones Cali Colombia’s machine was not processing Visa cards.

I was directed, on departure day, to go to an ATM to pay full in cash.

I didn't want to lose air miles or proof of purchase that Visa delivers.

They demanded US dollars, then gave most of them back.

It took a few days, stressed communications and using PayPal to pay my bill.

The hotel is like staying with an oddball family, albeit in a great location at a great price.

They mean well -- they just are nothing corporate at all.

Overall, with six nights’ stay costing half what one night would cost in New York -- I’ll be back.

HOTEL BOUTIQUE CASA FARALLONES

QUIRKY COMFORT WITHIN GREAT VALUE CONFINES

IN THE HEART OF CALI, COLOMBIA

The Hotel Boutique Casa Farallones Cali Colombia could benefit from having a staff member who speaks decent English.

I communicated in my mediocre Spanish in person and used Google Translate via WhatsApp to talk to the manager.

Some things were missed.

I wanted no housekeeping, but came back late one night to find my misarranged because a housekeeper had serviced it.

I did a day trip a day late over confusion with the manager on booking a driver for a faraway trip, not in-town visiting.

HOTEL BOUTIQUE CASA FARALLONES

QUIRKY COMFORT WITHIN GREAT VALUE CONFINES

IN THE HEART OF CALI, COLOMBIA

The Rio Cali, and its wonderful park filled with cat sculptures, is very close by Hotel Boutique Casa Farallones in Cali Colombia.

Breakfast is about 2 dollars and includes coffee, hot chocolate, toast, arepas and eggs done many ways.

For security, they lock the front door. 

You can get out at any time, but to get back in, you need to ring a buzzer.

I think it dates back to rougher times -- I felt 100% safe all over Cali, even well past midnight, and the Casa Farallones neighborhood is quiet, sleepy and safe around the clock. 

I would return.

HOTEL BOUTIQUE CASA FARALLONES

QUIRKY COMFORT WITHIN GREAT VALUE CONFINES

IN THE HEART OF CALI, COLOMBIA

The Hotel Boutique Casa Farallones Cali Colombia air conditioning  is strong – a huge positive because a lot of properties in Cali do not have AC despite 90 degree days.

Platillos Valadores, world class restaurant, is practically next door.

We had some confusion, but they ultimately found me an English speaking driver who took me past gorgeous scenery in Cauca -- to historic/colonial Popayan -- and back for $60 USD (a tour company would want triple).

HOTEL BOUTIQUE CASA FARALLONES

QUIRKY COMFORT WITHIN GREAT VALUE CONFINES

IN THE HEART OF CALI, COLOMBIA

Hotel Boutique Casa Farallones Cali Colombia is quirky.

They try to charge you for shampoo, but it's only a dollar per packet.

They do not speak English.

Google translate use is a must unless you speak Spanish.

An odd (mainly all restaurants and drug stores but with a tremendous supermarket) mall is very close by and the dorm sized fridge allows you to store some milk, berries and beverages.

HOTEL BOUTIQUE CASA FARALLONES

QUIRKY COMFORT WITHIN GREAT VALUE CONFINES

IN THE HEART OF CALI, COLOMBIA

The Hotel Boutique Casa Farallones Cali Colombia value/price point is incredible.

The hotel also was super quiet at night -- something not all properties in Cali can deliver.

The location is great.

You are walking distance from colonial San Antonio, posh El Penon, vibrant Granada and quirky Centro neighborhoods -- 

Most of what a visitor would want to see in terms of museums, restaurants, architecture, music, nightlife, culture, etc.

 

SAUDADES

ANTHOLOGICAL CONTEMPLATIONS ON THE SAUDADE

OF PERSONS, PLACES AND TIME

So proud to be one of the artists included in the Saudades Project.

Thanks to Amy Serrano of Siren for putting so much of her creative energy into this book.

I can only hope that a gallery in Miami could host an exhibit of the works displayed in the upcoming book.

TRAVEL BROADENS THE MIND

AND INCREASES EMPATHY AND UNDERSTANDING OF OTHERS

In the past two years, I have had the good fortune to visit Rome, Paris, Istanbul, Naples, Ait Ben Haddou, Oaxaca, Marrakech and USA destinations too numerous to list.

In the past decade, I have been to Argentina, Uruguay, Brazl, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Colombia, Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, Guanajuato and several other destinations in South, Central and Spanish-speaking North America.

Each time, I have come back with not just an exposure to great architecture, cuisine, art and culture -- but also an increased empathy for others.

I grew up very sheltered in the Midwest. My family's idea of a far away foreign nation was Canada -- crossing the bridge in Niagra Falls back in pre 911 days when they barely looked at your ID. A big cultural exposure was driving the station wagon to the Blue Ridge Parkway.

I my journeys, I have formed an intense appreciation for all people of all abilities/disabilities, religions/no religion, gender/gender identity/orientation, race/ethnicity, etc.

My solemn wish, from the White House to the local person who hides behind hatred in online comments to news stories and in angry/hurtful social media blasts, is that 2020 will be a year when we can all embrace our humanity, appreciate our diversity and practice the Golden Rule.

MEDELLIN MAGIC -- EXPLORING COLOMBIA'S REMOTE METROPOLIS 8

MEDELLIN: SEE IT LIKE A NATIVE, SLEEP CHEAP AT PIERS' PLACE IN LA LAURELES

To stay in Medellin for less than $25 US per night, go to AirBnB and search for Laurales Estadio 23 (Calle 46 #70A) and email Piers.

Pros:

Tremendous price.

Laureles is safe, quiet, secure.

Apartment is very short walk to Estadio station for dirt cheap metro train access to entire city.

Nightlife, restaurants, street vendors and true flavor of Medellin within crawling distance along famed La Setanta but somehow, the apartment is very quiet -- so best of both worlds location.

Cheap nearby eats.
Crawling distance of the stadium if you want to catch a soccer, errr, futbol game.

Bathroom/shower kept super clean.

Funky blend of longer term and short term guests at this funky single family house.

Full kitchen plus washer to use for free.

Balcony to catch the mountain breezes while drinking in the sounds of a real neighborhood.

Taxi ride to centro about 6 mil COP (about 3 bucks US) if you're feeling too lazy to walk 6 short blocks to metro station.

Little market in bottom of house directly across the street, open roughly 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily -- has great prices and everything you need such as snacks, beer, soda, bottled water (though Medellin's is 100 safe out of the tap).

Location is in a real middle to upper middle class neighborhood -- you will be walking past everyday people, not tourists. Can't stress enough how important it is to stay local.

Piers saved me at least 60 US round trip by suggesting I take collective bus from airport to center (San Diego), then taxi to his place.

A taxi from airport will cost at least $35 US one way and gets you there no faster than the Piers suggested route, which costs only a couple bucks -- and exposes you to local culture that takes place on a 45 minute bus ride through the countryside and into the city.

MEDELLIN MAGIC -- EXPLORING COLOMBIA'S REMOTE METROPOLIS 7

MEDELLIN: THE METROCABLE DOES MORE FOR TOURISTS
THAN SIMPLY TRANSPORTING THEM TO PARQUE ARVI

On the way up the mountain, don't just transfer from one cable car station to the next on the way to the mountaintop Arvi Park.

Get out in Comuna Santo Domingo and take a walk around.

This used to be an unthinkable thing.

Not that long ago, the area was beyond dangerous.

It's certainly very, very rough around the edges.

But it represents the real Medellin.

There are more folks scratching out a living in the makeshift bars, shops, restaurants, barber shops and markets of Santo Domingo then there are millionaires in a walled and guarded enclave in El Poblado.

Even in the poverty-challenged hillside comunas, I experienced an amazing vibrancy of life and a resolve to create housing, shops and more out of basic materials.

MEDELLIN MAGIC -- EXPLORING COLOMBIA'S REMOTE METROPOLIS 6

MEDELLIN: MUCH MORE THAN EL POBLADO

Far too many visitors from the United States stay, eat, shop and play in El Poblado and never leave.

Certainly, the area is beautiful and features most of the city's 4-star hotels as well as its highly-rated restaurants and malls.

El Poblado is pretty, but it no more gives a realistic picture of Medellin than Beverly Hills does of diverse and fascinating Los Angeles County in the states.

Stroll downtown's San Diego district (indeed, it is safer before sundown.)

Marvel at old mansions in El Prado.

Set up camp in La Laureles, a middle class neighborhood near universities and the city's soccer stadium.

Dance, drink and dine on street food along the enchanting street fair that is La Setenta.