Friday, March 23, 2018

A CONNOISSEUR'S GUIDE TO CIHANGIR - 16

Courtesy of Cornucopia, The Magazine for Connoisseurs of Turkey


A little further along is Pilot, a pioneering contemporary art space housed in a converted 1970s nightclub. 

Opposite is a square with the pastel-green Firuz Aga Mosque and a few cafés that are always busy, including two where you strictly drink tea, lovingly known to the locals as the Cihangir cay bahcesi. 

Also try Firuez and Kardesler Kebap. 

Opposite these, you’ll find a branch of Selim Usta’s Tarhi Sultanahmet Koftecisi, an Old City institution. 

But for the indigenous equivalent you should turn right into Çukurcuma and the Cukurcuma Koftecesi, where lunch is summarised by our friends at Istanbul Eats as ‘like being part of the live studio audience of a sitcom with meatballs.

Three generations of an unusually tall family run a busy local restaurant with what seems like very little service industry experience but great intentions and strong will. 

Hilarity ensues.’ 

The meatballs are delicious.

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