A little further along is Pilot, a pioneering contemporary art space housed in a converted 1970s nightclub.
Opposite is a square with the pastel-green Firuz Aga
Mosque and a few cafés that are always busy, including two where you
strictly drink tea, lovingly known to the locals as the Cihangir cay bahcesi.
Also try Firuez and Kardesler Kebap.
Opposite these, you’ll find a branch of
Selim Usta’s Tarhi Sultanahmet Koftecisi, an Old City institution.
But for the
indigenous equivalent you should turn right into Çukurcuma and the Cukurcuma
Koftecesi, where lunch is summarised by our friends at Istanbul Eats as
‘like being part of the live studio audience of a sitcom with meatballs.
Three
generations of an unusually tall family run a busy local restaurant with what
seems like very little service industry experience but great intentions and
strong will.
Hilarity ensues.’
The meatballs are delicious.
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