Waiters air-kiss the cosmopolitan diners, who cross the room to greet their neighbours.
Smyrna and newcomer Journey are two of the more popular at any time
of day.
Continue straight from Firuz Ağa Mosque and you come out on Boğazkesen
Caddesi, above the old Ottoman cannon foundry which gives the district of
Tophane its name.
Istanbul Modern is on the Bosphorus shore, across the
main road and tram line.
Start in Taksim, easily reached by metro and the
funicular from Kabataş, or by taxi to the Cihangir mosque.
From İstiklâl
Caddesi, thread your way through the narrow lanes behind Galatasaray Lycée.
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