PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 17

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

At Centre Pompidou, people with disabilities who cannot walk stairs must journey very long distances to reach one elevator that only reaches the main, first and basement floors. 

Another elevator, a very long stroll away, serves the upper floor galleries 5 and 6.  

On the opposite side of the more than one million square foot building, elevators reach only galleries 3 and 4.

The idea of forcing folks to go on tour of the building to reach elevators might have seemed cool to the architects.

Or maybe they were trying to promote fitness.

But it is a disaster for folks who push their own wheelchairs, are slow walkers, have respiratory issues or just plain are pushing 60 husbands pushing their wife's manual wheelchair all over creation -- not to see world class art -- but to just go from one floor to the other.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 16

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The views are worth the price of admission to the Centre Pompidou and can be had without buying lunch, dinner or drinks from Georges.

There are stunning vistas from any number of outdoor plazas on the gallery levels.  

While the main system of transport is through see through glass tubed escalators, all of the open air observations points are accessible via elevator.

Seeing the Eiffel Tower to the southwest and Sacre Coeur atop Montmartre to the north is breathtaking.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 15

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The Pompidou has a countless galleries, one of the best contemporary art collections anywhere, fabulous traveling exhibits and areas focused for children.

It also has one of the most exhaustive art and design-focused bookstores/gift shops on earth, plus a hip design store.

While it may not be a candidate for a Michelin star in a city filled with top chefs, beloved bistrots and brasseries, the rooftop Georges restaurant serves quite memorable cuisine.

We almost avoid all revolving or rooftop restaurants -- as you are paying for the view not great cuisine.  

While the views are worth the price (our lunch with dessert and drinks was 100 euros), the kitchen more than holds its own.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 14

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Though the Louvre is arguably the most famous museum on earth, the D'Orsay is a powerhouse since it opened in the late 20th century and Paris is filled with dozens of top drawer museums...

If I had just once half day to spend indoors, I most likely would suggest the Centre Pompidou.

While considered a non-contextual affront to the neighborhood, and all of central Paris by many, I love the modern architecture and the theory behind it: that visitors see all the mechanicals on the outside.

This not only creates breathtaking interior spaces free from obstructions, but it also does a great deal of teaching about architecture and engineering.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 13

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The Bateaux Parisiens captain, before leaving the dock, invited us to sit up front, beyond the passenger seating, where my wife could truly see out onto the Seine and all the monuments along it.

The price was very reasonable (15 euros).

Next to the accessible restroom was a pair of vending machine that had ice cold sodas, waters and more -- and it even took credit cards.

We got hundreds of great photos from or digital SLR and iPhone cameras.

It was a smooth, safe ride.

It lasted about an hour -- a perfect amount of time to get a feel for the location of Paris' grand monuments.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 12

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Bateaux Parisiens assured that because one of us uses a wheelchair for mobility, we would benefit from early boarding.

We were assured that there is a larger restroom on the main deck level reserved for people with disabilities.

We were taken by ramp and boarded without having to bump up or down any steps -- and without my wife having to worry about being carried in her wheelchair.

We were seated near the front.

We found the great accessible restroom.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 11

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Thank you so much -- Bateaux Parisiens -- for caring about visitors who use wheelchairs for mobility.

We showed up one morning.

We had not made advance arrangements.

We were not sure if there was a restroom on board and if so, was it on main deck level (very rare).

We didn't want to spend a ton of money.

We wanted to get bottles of water for the trip.

We were met at the ticket booth by a person who spoke flawless English.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 9

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Passage du Grand Cerf in the 1st arrondissement, very close to the great eating street Rue Montorguiel.

Abandoned for nearly a century, it was restored to its former glory a few years ago and gets our vote for the most beautiful Parisian arcade.

It's off the usual tourist track and home to a host of tempting shops, including the artisanal jewelry boutique, Satellite.

We could not find an accessible restroom within the building.

Also, the side closer to Montorguiel is a level entrance, while the other end has a few steps to negotiated.

Otherwise, the main walkway is bright, beautiful and 100 percent barrier-free.

Small shops are tight for wheeling through, but not impossible.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 8

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Jardin des Tuileries is a lush, formal garden in central Paris immediately west of the sprawling, enthralling Musee Louvre.

The main access points -- Place du Carrousel to the east, next to the Louvre, and Place de la Concorde to the west, near the ancient Egyptian Obelisk – are accessible.

The pathways are sand and gravel, not paved, but generally wheelchair accessible.

Beware, on windy days, the dust kicks up something fierce.

Beware even more – most entry/exit points to Tuileries along Rue Rivoli or the Seine consist of a number of steps that create a barrier for wheelers.

The 50+ acre gardens, full of statues, ponds and cafes, feature fully-accessible toilets near Concorde.

That western edge of the once royal, now open to the public garden also hosts a pair of worthy museums.

The Orangerie Museum’s collection includes Monet's impressionist masterpiece, his Nympheas (Water Lilies) series.

The Jeu de Paume National Galleries next door feature contemporary art, photography and film.

For people with disabilities, plan on a long walk and roll up long ramps of hard packed sand/gravel to get up to the museums elevated about one story above ground level at Place Concorde.

Once up the long ramps, access is easy within the pair of museums that are gems let overshadowed by the massiveness of the nearby Louvre and D’Orsay across the Seine.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 7

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Canal St. Martin connects waterways on the far north side of Paris to the Seine.

Though some of it is tunneled, the north part provides a beautiful waterway in the up and coming 10^th arrondissement.

Plenty of up and coming chefs have located along the canal, drawn by much lower rents in the still somewhat working class, not that long ago rough and tumble district.

Walkways along the water are often narrow, devoid of curb ramps and brutally bumpy.

The streets are narrow, so sidewalks along the building (vs. water) side of the canal side roads are a good option for people with disabilities who use assistive mobility devices.

The Hotel du Nord, once a small hotel and forever famous as the setting for the 1938 classic Marcel Carne drama.

The Hotel du Nord building still stands, but people no longer visit for a place to sleep.

Now it is a bar, restaurant and brunch spot – with plenty of those little tables with side-by-side chairs pointed at the canal for maximum people watching.

There is a fascinating 2-plus hour boat tour twice a day, one heading from Bastille north and the other from Basin de la Villette south.

Though the boat has a water closet on the main deck, boarding for a wheelchair user involves being carried down/up a few steps.

And while the Villette Basin area is easily walkable, the docks in Bastille are down a very long, bumpy cobblestoned ramp.

So we passed on the Canauxrama canal tour, through many locks and under picturesque steel bridges, till a future visit.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 6

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Les Halles, the market stands that served as Paris’ belly for centuries, are gone.

Rue Montorgueil lives on.

While Paris is famed for the temporary food markets that usually set up twice per week in various neighborhoods – Marches Bastille and Daumensnil are fine examples – Rue Montorgueil is a gourmet fresh and prepared food marche the opens every day in permanent quarters.

Americans used to drive through fast food and overly processed items at the grocer will weep at the amount of organic produce, fabled French fromages, chocolates, pastries, wine shops and more.

Wheelchair access is not perfect, but there are a decent amount of curb ramps and the majority of shops and restaurants can be entered on level ground.

The main street has limited vehicular access, so many folks walk and roll along it rather than the narrow, crowded sidewalks.

Most of the side alleys have hip new restaurant by young chefs while the main drag tends to have more stayed and steady bistrots, brasseries and the like.

Because the buildings are old, finding a restroom that isn’t down a long flight of stairs, or sometimes up several steps, is a challenge for wheelers.

Thankfully, some places without accessible restrooms have deals with neighboring properties that have main floor, zero threshold, generally accessible restrooms.

If worse comes to worse, roll into Paul – a chain but respected boulangerie-pastisserie – has a great family restroom, a level entrance and a front counter staff that will buzz you into the accessible restroom whether you buy a baguette and croissant or not.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 2

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Les Duc Lombards has been a popular jazz club for more than three decades.

Centrally located, it has outstanding national and local acts.

We saw Laurent de Wilde, who we have seen perform every time we’ve been in Paris.

Unlike some underground “cave” clubs that are off limits to wheelchair users, Duc Lombards is on level ground.

While the main restrooms are downstairs without an elevator – a very common thing in the heart of Paris – there is a main level bathroom reserved for people with disabilities.

There is not a bad sightline in the house and they are excellent about seating wheelchair users.

As for acoustics, the room is perfect to hear classic jazz trios.

CENTRE POMPIDOU

PARIS, FRANCE

The Centre Pompidou, designed by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, is a 20th-century architectural marvel, immediately recognizable by its exterior escalators and enormous coloured tubing.

It is home to the National Museum of Modern Art and is internationally renowned for its 20th and 21st century art collections.

The works of iconic artists are displayed chronologically over two sections: the modern period, from 1905 to 1960 (Matisse, Picasso, Dubuffet, etc.), and the contemporary period, from 1960 to the present day (Andy Warhol, Niki de Saint Phalle, Anish Kapoor, etc.). 

In addition to its permanent collections, internationally renowned exhibitions are organized every year on the top floor, where visitors can enjoy a breathtaking view of Paris and its rooftops.

Everything you might need to spend a pleasant half-day, or indeed a day in the museum is available: eat at Le Georges, learn more at the public information library, and take a break browsing the shelves of the museum gift shop.

At the foot of the Centre, the Atelier Brancusi presents a unique collection of works by this artist who played a major role in the history of modern sculpture.

--parisinfo.com

ADAGIO ACCESS PARIS REUILLY -- part 5

GREAT PARIS APARTMENT-HOTEL IN 12th ARRONDISSEMENT

The Adagio Access Paris Reuilly has a small, onsite, self-serve breakfast area on the ground floor (there also an inner courtyard terrace for warm weather.

The courtyard is decorated, for several vertical stories, with neon lights.

They look cool and hip – but they lit up my room at night.

I was in room 101, facing the back – it would benefit either from the neon being turned way down/off at night.

Better still, install blackout curtains.

The room has one small window – equipping with big, no gaps blackout drapes would serve the savvy travelers attracted to the Adagio brand.

The Accor Hotels site for the Adagio Reuilly is:

https://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-8984-aparthotel-adagio-access-paris-reuilly/index.shtml

I got a slightly better deal through Booking.com:

https://www.booking.com/hotel/fr/adagio-access-paris-reuilly.html

ADAGIO ACCESS PARIS REUILLY -- part 4

GREAT PARIS APARTMENT-HOTEL IN 12th ARRONDISSEMENT

Dear Adagio Access Paris Reuilly: I’m sharing some ideas to make a great room perfect.

Put the room safe anywhere but the bottom floor of the closet.

Coming off a long flight and being mid 50s, the last thing I want to do is get down on hands and knees and kiss the floor to access the safe for stowing my passport. 

Raise it up to waist height.

Put in a toaster.

The cooktop and microwave are very nice, but for morning toasting of all sort of French bread, bagels, even pastries -- I needed a toaster or small toaster oven.

Put a chain on the stopper in the wet room sink. 

I pushed the stopper down to do laundry in the sink -- a very common practice for road warriors -- and could never open it again.

The sink filled up with soap suds, toothpaste waste, etc -- fix this oversight.

ADAGIO ACCESS PARIS REUILLY -- part 3

GREAT PARIS APARTMENT-HOTEL IN 12th ARRONDISSEMENT

Adagio Access Paris Reuilly is a great deal because I got a room at a great time of year in Paris (September) for 200 USD per night -- fully loaded with VAT including.

I don't want to pay extra for a big lobby, tired crappy round the clock restaurant, gift shop, concierge, or 10 stupid decorative pillows on the bed upon arrival.

I'm a savvy traveler, so that extra crud insults me and tacks on 50 USD or more per night – making me pay for things I don't want.

Thank you, Accor/Adagio, for figuring out that there are those of us who will eat local, figure things out for ourselves and be low maintenance on housekeeping and staff -- so savings are passed on to us.

One other super high bonus point – the 3 star amenity (4 of 5 in ratings) property has 6 rooms adapted for people with disabilities.