HOTEL DE PARIS MONTPARNASSE

GREAT STAFF, TINY ROOM, GOOD LOCATION NEXT TO GARE MONTPARNASSE

Rue Daguerre, one of the greatest foodie streets in one of the greatest gastronomic cities, is a 10 minute stroll from Hotel de Paris Montparnasse.

The wonderful Marche Edgar Quinet sets up on Wednesdays and Saturdays less than 5 minutes from Hôtel de Paris Montparnasse.

Historic Cimetière du Montparnasse is footsteps away, as are the famous Catacombs underground boneyard.

I would strongly suggest heading south of the hotel through the various low key, very French neighborhoods of the 14th.

There are old villages that became a part of Paris.

Marche aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves, open Saturdays and Sundays only, is the second best flea market in all of Paris.

In perfect 72 F weather, I zig zagged through some not so tourist-choked Paris and -- 2 km and less than an hour from hotel -- turned up at the Marche aux Puces.

HOTEL DE PARIS MONTPARNASSE

GREAT STAFF, TINY ROOM, GOOD LOCATION NEXT TO GARE MONTPARNASSE

My room was very tiny at Hotel de Paris Montparnasse.

Barely 100 SF if that.

Basically a place to store some clothing, take a shower, hit the bathroom and sleep. I was there two days.

I don't think I could recommended it for more than 3 days stay -- and I'm the kind of person who goes out early and comes back late each day while traveling.

It's a typical old, tiny European hotel room -- modernized with plenty of outlets -- regular and USB.

HOTEL DE PARIS MONTPARNASSE

GREAT STAFF, TINY ROOM, GOOD LOCATION NEXT TO GARE MONTPARNASSE

High praise for the staff at Hotel de Paris Montparnasse.

It is a smallish, family-run hotel and I made a couple special requests -- having an extra flat sheet in the room upon arrival -- and they had this covered.

It's my test of front desk responsiveness.

They have fresh filtered water and large glass bottles for you to use for free.

This was an excellent way of saving money on buying water while also saving the planet by not tossing away plastic.

The location is crawling distance from Gare Montparnasse -- which was a big draw for me because I was catching the high speed train to Bordeaux at the end of my Paris stay.

APARTHOTEL ADAGIO BORDEAUX CENTRE GAMBETTA

MODERN BUILDING WITH GALLEY KITCHEN FOOTSTEPS FROM TRANSIT

Pound for pound, Bordeaux boasts some of the best gastronomy and wine in all of France...or the world for that matter.

Code 23, a fabulous bar with live music and a cozy vibe, is less than 15 minutes walk from the property.

Le Petit Commerce, one of the greatest, most unpretentious seafood houses in all of the region, is 15 minutes walk away from Aparthotel Adagio Bordeaux Centre Gambetta.

Boulangerie Jocteur, an outstanding bakery, is a brisk 5 minute walk from the hotel.

Chartrons and its great homes and bistros are 15 minutes by tram.

Cite du Vin is less than 25 minutes by tram.

Bassins des Lumières, in a WWII submarine bunker also to the north of town, is less than 45 minutes by public transit.

APARTHOTEL ADAGIO BORDEAUX CENTRE GAMBETTA

MODERN BUILDING WITH GALLEY KITCHEN FOOTSTEPS FROM TRANSIT

Aparthotel Adagio Bordeaux Centre Gambetta Front desk staff was excellent about giving tips on shopping/dining.

It also complied with my standard request to get the room farthest from the elevator and to have an extra flat sheet in the room.

I certainly used the coffee maker, as well as the fridge to store leftover gourmet food -- and the stove and microwave to reheat said food.

St. Catherine Street -- billed as the longest pedestrian shopping street in all of Europe, is footsteps away.

Garonne River, muddy but the spine of the city for centuries, is 10-12 minutes walk away, as is the famous Place de la Bourse with its giant reflecting pond and wondrous architecture. Bordeaux is a great city.

APARTHOTEL ADAGIO BORDEAUX CENTRE GAMBETTA

MODERN BUILDING WITH GALLEY KITCHEN FOOTSTEPS FROM TRANSIT

When first considering several properties, I thought Aparthotel Adagio Bordeaux Centre Gambetta might be out of the center.

Turns out it's in the center.

And right on the edge of the UNESCO World Heritage part of the city.

It's the best of both worlds -- modern, updated and quiet as it is not near any wine or other bars or nightclubs.

But Gambetta is a great area, flush with hip restaurants, wine bars and grocery stores.

One of the tram lines is 5 minutes away.

Also within a 5 minute walk is the G bus that connected with historic Saint Jean train station, where I arrived from Paris. 

CENTRAL PARIS

PHOTOGRAPHED FROM PLACE ITALIE

We love the livable urban village within a thriving metropolis feel of Paris’ 13th Arrondissement.

Place d’Italie has three major Metro lines for rapid movement about the city.

Just to the west of it is the ‘Quartier Asiatique’ -- home to the city’s principal Asian community.

The hilly La Buttes Aux Cailles, a village of lively bars, moderately-priced  restaurants, succulent boulangeries and a locals feel, is within the 13th.

We are charmed by the non-touristy backstreets and corner cafes.

RAINY NIGHT IN PARIS

ROUND ABOUT MIDNIGHT 

Winding down a 14-hour workday.

Lengthened by two hours of pre-dawn exercise.

Coming home to Art Nouveau splendor in 9th arrondissement.

The next day, a Universal Design roving workshop with the goal of visiting all 20 arrondissements, via walking no transit or car travel, within daylight hours of one day.

PARIS METROPOLITAIN

 TIMELESS BEAUTY CREATED BY HECTOR GUIMARD

Nothing says Paris and Art Nouveau quite like the stylized Metropolitain entrance signs.

Architect Hector Guimard designed the first ones in the early 20th century.

The unsung Guimard also designed a number of highly decorative apartments and houses in Paris.

Most of the Art Nouveau metro entrances are replicas, as the city destroyed many of the originals in an ill-advised move toward a more modern look in the mid 20th century.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 17

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

At Centre Pompidou, people with disabilities who cannot walk stairs must journey very long distances to reach one elevator that only reaches the main, first and basement floors. 

Another elevator, a very long stroll away, serves the upper floor galleries 5 and 6.  

On the opposite side of the more than one million square foot building, elevators reach only galleries 3 and 4.

The idea of forcing folks to go on tour of the building to reach elevators might have seemed cool to the architects.

Or maybe they were trying to promote fitness.

But it is a disaster for folks who push their own wheelchairs, are slow walkers, have respiratory issues or just plain are pushing 60 husbands pushing their wife's manual wheelchair all over creation -- not to see world class art -- but to just go from one floor to the other.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 16

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The views are worth the price of admission to the Centre Pompidou and can be had without buying lunch, dinner or drinks from Georges.

There are stunning vistas from any number of outdoor plazas on the gallery levels.  

While the main system of transport is through see through glass tubed escalators, all of the open air observations points are accessible via elevator.

Seeing the Eiffel Tower to the southwest and Sacre Coeur atop Montmartre to the north is breathtaking.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 15

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The Pompidou has a countless galleries, one of the best contemporary art collections anywhere, fabulous traveling exhibits and areas focused for children.

It also has one of the most exhaustive art and design-focused bookstores/gift shops on earth, plus a hip design store.

While it may not be a candidate for a Michelin star in a city filled with top chefs, beloved bistrots and brasseries, the rooftop Georges restaurant serves quite memorable cuisine.

We almost avoid all revolving or rooftop restaurants -- as you are paying for the view not great cuisine.  

While the views are worth the price (our lunch with dessert and drinks was 100 euros), the kitchen more than holds its own.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 14

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Though the Louvre is arguably the most famous museum on earth, the D'Orsay is a powerhouse since it opened in the late 20th century and Paris is filled with dozens of top drawer museums...

If I had just once half day to spend indoors, I most likely would suggest the Centre Pompidou.

While considered a non-contextual affront to the neighborhood, and all of central Paris by many, I love the modern architecture and the theory behind it: that visitors see all the mechanicals on the outside.

This not only creates breathtaking interior spaces free from obstructions, but it also does a great deal of teaching about architecture and engineering.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 13

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The Bateaux Parisiens captain, before leaving the dock, invited us to sit up front, beyond the passenger seating, where my wife could truly see out onto the Seine and all the monuments along it.

The price was very reasonable (15 euros).

Next to the accessible restroom was a pair of vending machine that had ice cold sodas, waters and more -- and it even took credit cards.

We got hundreds of great photos from or digital SLR and iPhone cameras.

It was a smooth, safe ride.

It lasted about an hour -- a perfect amount of time to get a feel for the location of Paris' grand monuments.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 12

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Bateaux Parisiens assured that because one of us uses a wheelchair for mobility, we would benefit from early boarding.

We were assured that there is a larger restroom on the main deck level reserved for people with disabilities.

We were taken by ramp and boarded without having to bump up or down any steps -- and without my wife having to worry about being carried in her wheelchair.

We were seated near the front.

We found the great accessible restroom.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 11

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Thank you so much -- Bateaux Parisiens -- for caring about visitors who use wheelchairs for mobility.

We showed up one morning.

We had not made advance arrangements.

We were not sure if there was a restroom on board and if so, was it on main deck level (very rare).

We didn't want to spend a ton of money.

We wanted to get bottles of water for the trip.

We were met at the ticket booth by a person who spoke flawless English.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 10

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

The Louvre Museum has made great strides in wheelchair access.

It is true that wheelchair using visitors must use a dozen or more elevators just to get around one main wing of the old palace.

But docents are great about pointing out the lifts and they seem to be well-maintained.

Great strides have been made for access to the Mona Lisa.

It's temporary display room features a large area in front of the roped off crowd -- for disabled visitors to get an unobstructed view of La Giaconda.

Here, Heidi Johnson-Wright checks out her direct-view shot of the fabled Da Vinci painting.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 9

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Passage du Grand Cerf in the 1st arrondissement, very close to the great eating street Rue Montorguiel.

Abandoned for nearly a century, it was restored to its former glory a few years ago and gets our vote for the most beautiful Parisian arcade.

It's off the usual tourist track and home to a host of tempting shops, including the artisanal jewelry boutique, Satellite.

We could not find an accessible restroom within the building.

Also, the side closer to Montorguiel is a level entrance, while the other end has a few steps to negotiated.

Otherwise, the main walkway is bright, beautiful and 100 percent barrier-free.

Small shops are tight for wheeling through, but not impossible.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 8

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Jardin des Tuileries is a lush, formal garden in central Paris immediately west of the sprawling, enthralling Musee Louvre.

The main access points -- Place du Carrousel to the east, next to the Louvre, and Place de la Concorde to the west, near the ancient Egyptian Obelisk – are accessible.

The pathways are sand and gravel, not paved, but generally wheelchair accessible.

Beware, on windy days, the dust kicks up something fierce.

Beware even more – most entry/exit points to Tuileries along Rue Rivoli or the Seine consist of a number of steps that create a barrier for wheelers.

The 50+ acre gardens, full of statues, ponds and cafes, feature fully-accessible toilets near Concorde.

That western edge of the once royal, now open to the public garden also hosts a pair of worthy museums.

The Orangerie Museum’s collection includes Monet's impressionist masterpiece, his Nympheas (Water Lilies) series.

The Jeu de Paume National Galleries next door feature contemporary art, photography and film.

For people with disabilities, plan on a long walk and roll up long ramps of hard packed sand/gravel to get up to the museums elevated about one story above ground level at Place Concorde.

Once up the long ramps, access is easy within the pair of museums that are gems let overshadowed by the massiveness of the nearby Louvre and D’Orsay across the Seine.

PARIS BY WHEELCHAIR -- Part 7

PROGRESS MADE, BUT MANY CHALLENGES REMAIN

Canal St. Martin connects waterways on the far north side of Paris to the Seine.

Though some of it is tunneled, the north part provides a beautiful waterway in the up and coming 10^th arrondissement.

Plenty of up and coming chefs have located along the canal, drawn by much lower rents in the still somewhat working class, not that long ago rough and tumble district.

Walkways along the water are often narrow, devoid of curb ramps and brutally bumpy.

The streets are narrow, so sidewalks along the building (vs. water) side of the canal side roads are a good option for people with disabilities who use assistive mobility devices.

The Hotel du Nord, once a small hotel and forever famous as the setting for the 1938 classic Marcel Carne drama.

The Hotel du Nord building still stands, but people no longer visit for a place to sleep.

Now it is a bar, restaurant and brunch spot – with plenty of those little tables with side-by-side chairs pointed at the canal for maximum people watching.

There is a fascinating 2-plus hour boat tour twice a day, one heading from Bastille north and the other from Basin de la Villette south.

Though the boat has a water closet on the main deck, boarding for a wheelchair user involves being carried down/up a few steps.

And while the Villette Basin area is easily walkable, the docks in Bastille are down a very long, bumpy cobblestoned ramp.

So we passed on the Canauxrama canal tour, through many locks and under picturesque steel bridges, till a future visit.