ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 5

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

Enoteca Italiana has hundreds of bottles of fine Italian wine for sale.

Unless you have your heart set on some estate winery's vintage from decades ago, the prices are stunningly affordable.

It's also worth noting that the Enoteca features outstanding wheelchair access to its entrance, bar and terrace dining area.

The restrooms are within ancient walls, but they have been remodeled and feature some of the best barrier-free access we've ever experienced.

IF YOU GO

www.enoteca-italiana.it

0577-228843

Fortezza Medicea, Piazza Libertà 1

enoteca@enoteca-italiana.it

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 4

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

It really is all about the wine at Enoteca Italiana.

"The wines exhibited at the Enoteca are a representative selection of Italy's finest wines: DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita - Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin), DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata - Controlled Denomination of Origin), IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica - Typical Geographical Provenance), and especially fine table wines, including sparkling and special wines, distillates and typical liqueurs," the Enoteca's literature explains.

"The Enoteca also organizes courses, meetings, conferences, seminars and cultural events (wine and music, wine and art, wine and poetry, and the like) and, in June, its traditional `Wine Week,' plus the more recent `National [Olive] Oil Week' held in February."

"It exhibits at events and fairs in Italy and abroad and is also publisher of prestige works such as `Il Paese del Vino' - Wine Country."

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 27

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 3

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

We started at the bar area, tasting an excellent Orcia DOC "Atrium" 2007, by the winery Mencarelli Sonia.

Next came glasses of Chianti Classico DOCG and Rosso di Montalcino DOC.

A sparkling fresh white wine accompanied our lunch on the gorgeous terrace dining area for Mille Vine, the restaurant at Enoteca Italiana.

Chef Alberto Degortes created a special menu for us, opening with a vegetable souffle.

This crispy, tart-like appetizer was like a comforting baby pot pie with a more dense texture inside the crust.

Our main dish the ubiquitous Tuscan treat of porchetta -- slices of baby pig with just the right amount of herb seasoning and served warm the perfect balance of fat inside and crispy skin outside.

A simple side dish of roasted roast potatoes rounded out the savory portion of our wine luncheon.

We capped it off with a Apsic di fragole al Moscato d'Asti -- strawberries in a cold gelatin of moscato.

A strong double espresso helped take the edge off all the wine sampling (we were traveling by taxi within Sienna and taking a train home to Florence, so we were not going to be irresponsible drivers.)

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 26

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 2

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

In the words of its press material:

"The Enoteca Italiana, a public institution unique of its kind in Italy, was founded in 1960 as a tool for the Ente Mostra Mercato Nazionale dei Vini a DOC e di Pregio (National Fair/Market Board for DOC and Premium Wines), instituted earlier in 1933 and recognized by Presidential Decree in 1950."

"Its purpose is to inform people about Italy's great wines and wineries, and valorize and promote them."

"It is headquartered in Siena, in the northwestern bastions of the Medici Fortress an imposing yet harmonious testimonial to 16th-century military architecture, designed by Baldassare Lanci for Cosimo de' Medici I."

"More than 1,500 wines are on permanent display after having been carefully selected by a judging committee.

"They were chosen from among more than 600 wineries that now, thanks to a computerized system unique of its kind, 'dialogue' with visitors, providing a meaningful look at the Italian wine world."

"Wines can be tasted here inside the Enoteca or on its splendid terraces and bought or ordered for delivery in Italy and abroad; information and documentation are provided about these wines and the wineries."

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 25

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 1

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

Siena is a beautiful and ancient Tuscan hill town famed for its Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Pubblico, (town hall), Torre del Mangia (nearly 300-foot tall tower) and Piazza del Campo (public plaza) lined with medieval buildings.

When preparing for a visit, one does not instantly think of wine -- other than the fact that every osteria, trattoria, ristorante and pizzeria worth its salt has plenty of Tuscan and reds and whites on hand.

But near the top of very steep and hilly Siena there is a veritable museum of wine nestled into a wing of a 16th century fortress.

The fort was built by the Medici family of Florence, which sacked its rival Sienna then built a fort not to protect the people of Siena, but to keep them from regaining their city from Medici forces.

The Enoteca Italiana stores more than 1,500 bottles of wine, contributed from every region in Italy.

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 24

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 6

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

IF YOU GO

http://www.poggiopiano.it/index.php?lang=eng&pag=home

Via dei Bassi, 13- Loc Girone, Fiesole

+39 055 6593020 

info@poggiopiano.it

From our friends at Wikipedia, some background on Italy's most-used quality assurance lables for wines:

These require that the wine, or other food product, be produced with the specific region using defined methods and that it satisfy a defined quality standard.

DOC — Denominazione di Origine Controllata (controlled designation of origin)

DOCG — Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (controlled designation of origin guaranteed)

The need for a DOCG identification arose when the DOC designation was, in the view of many Italian food industries, given too liberally to different products.

A new, more restrictive identification was then created, as similar as possible to the previous one so that buyers could still recognize it, but qualitatively different.

A notable difference for wines is that DOCG labeled wines are analyzed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation,

DOCG wine bottles then are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.

Italian legislation additionally regulates the use of the following qualifying terms for wines:

• Classico (classic): is reserved for wines produced in the region where a particular type of wine has been produced "traditionally". For the Chianti Classico, this "traditional region" is defined by a decree from July 10, 1932.

• Riserva (reserve): may be used only for wines that have been aged at least two years longer than normal for a particular type of wine.

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 5

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

White wine ERTA AL MANDORLO, also organically grown with the fruit of the Trebbiano toscano (60%), Verdicchio (40%) vines with what tasted like notes of pineapple to our untrained taste buds.

The Galardi's say "perfumes are discreet, reminiscent of minerals and citrus, with nuances of sage ending in light spicy sensations."

"Goes well with raw and  grilled fish; also with fish based dishes that require a wine of a medium-high consistency," says Mauro, noting that best consumption is within four years from harvest.

"Harvest and selection grapes are carried out with attentive care using crates with ventilation openings."

"Crates are taken from the vineyard to the cellar paying attention not to damage grapes, so as to avoid  oxidation or undesired fermentation processes."

Soft pressing immediately after harvest aids in maintaining the freshness of primary flavors."

"A unique wine, intense, with flavors that will continue to evolve in the glass offering ever new sensations."

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 22

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 4

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

Red wine I.G.T.  Poggio all'Uccellare, another red  wine from organic agriculture composed of  Merlot ( 55%) and  Cabernet ( 45%) grapes  with notes of berry and spices.

"A red wine from Tuscany with outstanding intense taste and flavors," said Mauro.

"Produced with selected late-harvested grapes from Cabernet and Merlot vines."

"Its full-bodied and persistent taste is the result of an  attentive fermentation, which takes place at controlled temperature, and the subsequent ageng in selected medium-toast oak barriques of varying types, which impart a wide range of flavors to the wine."

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 21 

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 3

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

Chianti D.O.C.G. Galardi, a red wine from organic agriculture composed of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (15%) and Cabernet (5%) grapes and bearing the flavor of red fruits and spices.

"The selection of the grapes is done with extreme care, as with every other part of our wine making, in order to extract  only the softest tannins."

"The wine is bottled avoiding strict filtration methods which do impart  translucency and clarity  to a wine, but inevitably  destabilize its structure," according to Mauro.

"It accompanies any dish which has a decisive taste but not excessive. Ideal accompaniment for tomato based pasta dishes, salami and grilled meats."

 FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 20

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 2

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

We didn't get to stay the night -- we were simply sampling wines with our new friends Lamberto Tozzi and Patrizia from Turismo Senza Barriere.

But  Elisabetta Galardi showed us an accessible room on the ground floor of the farm house that was nicely equipped for disabled guests and features panoramic views of the River Arno and village of Girone below.

The wine and olive oil tasting room also is barrier-free.

We sampled wonderful Chianti and Tuscan red while Mauro conjured up his best English to tell us about his passion.

He informed us about every vine, climate impact, harvest and processing technique at his wonderful winery.

Galardi's host wonderful wine tastings, which include three wonderful vintages that we'll profile during the next three days.

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 19

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 1

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

No visit to Tuscany would be complete without a visit to a rural village where a family has been growing grapes and turning them into wine -- on premises -- for ages.

Galardi wines are produced on Poggiopiano Farm located in Girone; a borough of the town of Fiesole, just seven kilometers from the historic center of Florence.

Mauro Galardi runs the organic farm that produces Chianti, red and white wines as well as extra virgin olive oil.

Elisabetta Galardi operates Fattoria di Poggiopiano, the vineyard and olive tree farm-based bed and breakfast on the property.

The husband and wife team also prepare hearty meals for guests at their farm house and cottages.

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 18

CIBREO -- PART 5

CIBREO -- FLORENCE'S BEST FINE DINING

Before dessert, a gourmet cheese plate arrived and we washed it down with a lovely dessert wine with an apricot bouquet.

Speaking of dessert, I opted for another renown Cibreo item -- the flourless chocolate cake. 

We also grazed on a dessert selection of cheese cake, chocolate flan and something that -- at least to our hillbilly-rooted tongues -- tasted like gourmet ice cream cake. Flawless espresso capped off dessert.

The prices, per person are roughly:  first course, 20 euro, second course 36 euro, cheeses 10 euro and dessert 15 euro.

Obviously, when you add a large bottle of sparkling water, a bottle of fine wine, dessert wine and espresso, you can add another nearly 80-100-plus euro to the bill.

We can only afford such extravagance once a year, but in our opinion, Cibreo is worth every penny.

IF YOU GO:

Cibreo is at Via del Verrocchio, 8r Firenze
Tel. : 055 234 11 00
e-mail : info@cibreo.com
www.cibreo.com


Get reservations or arrive at 7 p.m. and start pleading for a cherished table.


The restaurant is very near the famed Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio farmer's market.

Cibreo also has a casual trattoria, cafe and live theater nearby.

CIBREO -- PART 4

CIBREO -- FLORENCE'S BEST FINE DINING

Somewhere along the way, Team Picchi shows a little levity by bringing each table a giant bread stick shaped like a bone.

Despite being a fine dining joint, at least half the diners, (aka all the American tourists in the house) couldn't resist mugging for camera phone shots with the bone gritted in their teeth, Fido the hound style.

For the record, the breadstick tastes great and no, we did not mug for any cameras.

Now onto the fab the secondi patti. Heidi's was an ethereal deconstructed veal stew served on a plate, not a bowl, with edges defined by small homemade bread sticks. 

The super tender veal  was enhanced with carrot coins and pureed roasted potatoes.

Yours truly adopted for Cibreo's somewhat famous chicken and ricotta meat balls in tomato sauce with a side of asparagus. 

Yes, as some American over eaters whine, the meat balls are not huge by second course standards.

But no, you don't have the right to complain (you did get more than a half dozen samples of Tuscan treats, multiple kinds of bread, an appetizer and you'll have dessert...so no, you do not need a Fred Flintstone-sized portion for the main course.

PART 5 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 6

CIBREO -- PART 3

CIBREO -- FLORENCE'S BEST FINE DINING

Out comes Giulio Picchi, Fabio's son, to tell you about the heavenly items spread out in tiny tasting portions for you.

Our grazing included:  white beans in fabulous olive oil, ricotta unlike any you've ever savored, smoked cold muscles good enough to seduce a non bi-valve eater, the best zucchini you've ever tasted, warm potato rolls, chicken liver pate spread on crostini, herbed goat cheese, tomato aspic (cold gelatin) and cold veal tripe salad.

Full disclosure time.  We really tried hard not to be stomach-squeamish, but could not rise above our Midwestern roots. Alas, we did not finish even the tiny taste o' trippa.

Trusting the sommelier , we went with a fine Super Tuscan Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend that, well, blended perfectly with the wide range of delicacies brought to our table. Light on the tongue, it must of packed a bit of a punch, for we confess we forgot to note the label (sorry).

Spouse Heidi's primi patti was polenta with light ricotta cheese -- light as a cloud.  I opened with a brown fish stew that tasted like an upscale New Orleans gumbo.

PART 4 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 5

CIBREO -- PART 2

CIBREO -- FLORENCE'S BEST FINE DINING

Cibreo has no printed menu. Waiters -- versed in several languages -- sit down with you and go over the fresh items the purveyors have delivered that day and how they might make an excellent primi and secondi for your palette.

Though Cibreo is for foodies -- not the Cracker Barrel crowd -- our server was very conscious of not allowing us to embarrass ourselves with an order we would be unhappy with.

She very subtly pointed out that a game meat would be served cold to room temperature (when an American might expect it warm and be disappointed if it didn't come out red hot.) She also subtly stressed that the roast pigeon does have lots of small bones and is to be eaten with fingers.

The attention to detail is staggering -- and not just with the memorized menu with dozens of dazzling preparations.

Our server noticed a wobbly-legged chair at the table next to ours. She shot a glance at an underling (apparently responsible for such things) that basically said "the next time you let this happen, that  faulty piece of furniture will be smashed over your head."

Again -- if you want endless soup, salad and bread sticks, this ain't your place.

If you love starting off your meal with a perfectly-crafted array of Tuscan tidbits -- created by Chef Picchi, he of the mad man genius  in the kitchen self-cultivated persona -- you have come to the right place.

PART 3 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 4

CIBREO 1

CIBREO -- FLORENCE'S BEST FINE DINING

Cibreo is the most misunderstood restaurant in Florence.

A foodie paradise, Cibreo doesn't even crack the top 400 of more than 1,000 Florence restaurants ranked by the esteemed members of one of the world's most popular on-line rating sites.

Perhaps the fine dining establishment of star chef Fabio Picchi isn't for everyone -- the Olive Garden, it ain't.

But for anyone who appreciates slow food, outstanding service, premium ingredients and local sourcing, Cibreo easily deserves to be ranked among top dozen dining spots in fabled Florence.

It seems like the philistines who rail against Cibreo have a quartet of common complaints:

• Long waits for food (do you want fast service from a microwave or proper service from a kitchen that cares?)

• Small portions (they aren't small -- they are just appropriate size. Notice how Europeans aren't as obese as Americans?  There's a reason -- normal-sized portions.)

• They don't serve pasta (Tuscan cuisine involves a wide area of cheeses, game meat, beans, farm to table vegetables and other items that are not based on the noodle and slathered in red sauce.

• High prices (Florence is an expensive city and for the record, you could easily spend more than half of what it costs to eat at Cibreo drinking horrible wine, eating crappy food and being upsold on lousy appetizers and desserts at any number of tourist traps with pretty piazza views but cruddy kitchens. In other words, you get what you pay for.)                          

PART 2 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 3