ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 5

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

Enoteca Italiana has hundreds of bottles of fine Italian wine for sale.

Unless you have your heart set on some estate winery's vintage from decades ago, the prices are stunningly affordable.

It's also worth noting that the Enoteca features outstanding wheelchair access to its entrance, bar and terrace dining area.

The restrooms are within ancient walls, but they have been remodeled and feature some of the best barrier-free access we've ever experienced.

IF YOU GO

www.enoteca-italiana.it

0577-228843

Fortezza Medicea, Piazza Libertà 1

enoteca@enoteca-italiana.it

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 4

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

It really is all about the wine at Enoteca Italiana.

"The wines exhibited at the Enoteca are a representative selection of Italy's finest wines: DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita - Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin), DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata - Controlled Denomination of Origin), IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica - Typical Geographical Provenance), and especially fine table wines, including sparkling and special wines, distillates and typical liqueurs," the Enoteca's literature explains.

"The Enoteca also organizes courses, meetings, conferences, seminars and cultural events (wine and music, wine and art, wine and poetry, and the like) and, in June, its traditional `Wine Week,' plus the more recent `National [Olive] Oil Week' held in February."

"It exhibits at events and fairs in Italy and abroad and is also publisher of prestige works such as `Il Paese del Vino' - Wine Country."

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 27

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 3

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

We started at the bar area, tasting an excellent Orcia DOC "Atrium" 2007, by the winery Mencarelli Sonia.

Next came glasses of Chianti Classico DOCG and Rosso di Montalcino DOC.

A sparkling fresh white wine accompanied our lunch on the gorgeous terrace dining area for Mille Vine, the restaurant at Enoteca Italiana.

Chef Alberto Degortes created a special menu for us, opening with a vegetable souffle.

This crispy, tart-like appetizer was like a comforting baby pot pie with a more dense texture inside the crust.

Our main dish the ubiquitous Tuscan treat of porchetta -- slices of baby pig with just the right amount of herb seasoning and served warm the perfect balance of fat inside and crispy skin outside.

A simple side dish of roasted roast potatoes rounded out the savory portion of our wine luncheon.

We capped it off with a Apsic di fragole al Moscato d'Asti -- strawberries in a cold gelatin of moscato.

A strong double espresso helped take the edge off all the wine sampling (we were traveling by taxi within Sienna and taking a train home to Florence, so we were not going to be irresponsible drivers.)

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 26

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 2

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

In the words of its press material:

"The Enoteca Italiana, a public institution unique of its kind in Italy, was founded in 1960 as a tool for the Ente Mostra Mercato Nazionale dei Vini a DOC e di Pregio (National Fair/Market Board for DOC and Premium Wines), instituted earlier in 1933 and recognized by Presidential Decree in 1950."

"Its purpose is to inform people about Italy's great wines and wineries, and valorize and promote them."

"It is headquartered in Siena, in the northwestern bastions of the Medici Fortress an imposing yet harmonious testimonial to 16th-century military architecture, designed by Baldassare Lanci for Cosimo de' Medici I."

"More than 1,500 wines are on permanent display after having been carefully selected by a judging committee.

"They were chosen from among more than 600 wineries that now, thanks to a computerized system unique of its kind, 'dialogue' with visitors, providing a meaningful look at the Italian wine world."

"Wines can be tasted here inside the Enoteca or on its splendid terraces and bought or ordered for delivery in Italy and abroad; information and documentation are provided about these wines and the wineries."

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 25

ENOTECA ITALIANA -- SIENA, ITALY -- PART 1

A MUSEUM OF ITALIAN WINES WHERE YOU 

CAN WALK AWAY WITH THE DRINKABLE ART

Siena is a beautiful and ancient Tuscan hill town famed for its Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Pubblico, (town hall), Torre del Mangia (nearly 300-foot tall tower) and Piazza del Campo (public plaza) lined with medieval buildings.

When preparing for a visit, one does not instantly think of wine -- other than the fact that every osteria, trattoria, ristorante and pizzeria worth its salt has plenty of Tuscan and reds and whites on hand.

But near the top of very steep and hilly Siena there is a veritable museum of wine nestled into a wing of a 16th century fortress.

The fort was built by the Medici family of Florence, which sacked its rival Sienna then built a fort not to protect the people of Siena, but to keep them from regaining their city from Medici forces.

The Enoteca Italiana stores more than 1,500 bottles of wine, contributed from every region in Italy.

ENOTECA ITALIANA REVIEW CONTINUES

TOMORROW -- AUGUST 24

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 6

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

IF YOU GO

http://www.poggiopiano.it/index.php?lang=eng&pag=home

Via dei Bassi, 13- Loc Girone, Fiesole

+39 055 6593020 

info@poggiopiano.it

From our friends at Wikipedia, some background on Italy's most-used quality assurance lables for wines:

These require that the wine, or other food product, be produced with the specific region using defined methods and that it satisfy a defined quality standard.

DOC — Denominazione di Origine Controllata (controlled designation of origin)

DOCG — Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (controlled designation of origin guaranteed)

The need for a DOCG identification arose when the DOC designation was, in the view of many Italian food industries, given too liberally to different products.

A new, more restrictive identification was then created, as similar as possible to the previous one so that buyers could still recognize it, but qualitatively different.

A notable difference for wines is that DOCG labeled wines are analyzed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation,

DOCG wine bottles then are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.

Italian legislation additionally regulates the use of the following qualifying terms for wines:

• Classico (classic): is reserved for wines produced in the region where a particular type of wine has been produced "traditionally". For the Chianti Classico, this "traditional region" is defined by a decree from July 10, 1932.

• Riserva (reserve): may be used only for wines that have been aged at least two years longer than normal for a particular type of wine.

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 5

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

White wine ERTA AL MANDORLO, also organically grown with the fruit of the Trebbiano toscano (60%), Verdicchio (40%) vines with what tasted like notes of pineapple to our untrained taste buds.

The Galardi's say "perfumes are discreet, reminiscent of minerals and citrus, with nuances of sage ending in light spicy sensations."

"Goes well with raw and  grilled fish; also with fish based dishes that require a wine of a medium-high consistency," says Mauro, noting that best consumption is within four years from harvest.

"Harvest and selection grapes are carried out with attentive care using crates with ventilation openings."

"Crates are taken from the vineyard to the cellar paying attention not to damage grapes, so as to avoid  oxidation or undesired fermentation processes."

Soft pressing immediately after harvest aids in maintaining the freshness of primary flavors."

"A unique wine, intense, with flavors that will continue to evolve in the glass offering ever new sensations."

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 22

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 4

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

Red wine I.G.T.  Poggio all'Uccellare, another red  wine from organic agriculture composed of  Merlot ( 55%) and  Cabernet ( 45%) grapes  with notes of berry and spices.

"A red wine from Tuscany with outstanding intense taste and flavors," said Mauro.

"Produced with selected late-harvested grapes from Cabernet and Merlot vines."

"Its full-bodied and persistent taste is the result of an  attentive fermentation, which takes place at controlled temperature, and the subsequent ageng in selected medium-toast oak barriques of varying types, which impart a wide range of flavors to the wine."

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 21 

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 3

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

Chianti D.O.C.G. Galardi, a red wine from organic agriculture composed of Sangiovese (80%), Merlot (15%) and Cabernet (5%) grapes and bearing the flavor of red fruits and spices.

"The selection of the grapes is done with extreme care, as with every other part of our wine making, in order to extract  only the softest tannins."

"The wine is bottled avoiding strict filtration methods which do impart  translucency and clarity  to a wine, but inevitably  destabilize its structure," according to Mauro.

"It accompanies any dish which has a decisive taste but not excessive. Ideal accompaniment for tomato based pasta dishes, salami and grilled meats."

 FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 20

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 2

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

We didn't get to stay the night -- we were simply sampling wines with our new friends Lamberto Tozzi and Patrizia from Turismo Senza Barriere.

But  Elisabetta Galardi showed us an accessible room on the ground floor of the farm house that was nicely equipped for disabled guests and features panoramic views of the River Arno and village of Girone below.

The wine and olive oil tasting room also is barrier-free.

We sampled wonderful Chianti and Tuscan red while Mauro conjured up his best English to tell us about his passion.

He informed us about every vine, climate impact, harvest and processing technique at his wonderful winery.

Galardi's host wonderful wine tastings, which include three wonderful vintages that we'll profile during the next three days.

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 19

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO/GALARDI WINERY -- FIESOLE, ITALY -- PART 1

TUSCAN WINES TO DIE FOR -- WITHOUT EVEN 

HAVING TO JOURNEY TO THE CHIANTI REGION

No visit to Tuscany would be complete without a visit to a rural village where a family has been growing grapes and turning them into wine -- on premises -- for ages.

Galardi wines are produced on Poggiopiano Farm located in Girone; a borough of the town of Fiesole, just seven kilometers from the historic center of Florence.

Mauro Galardi runs the organic farm that produces Chianti, red and white wines as well as extra virgin olive oil.

Elisabetta Galardi operates Fattoria di Poggiopiano, the vineyard and olive tree farm-based bed and breakfast on the property.

The husband and wife team also prepare hearty meals for guests at their farm house and cottages.

FATTORIA DI POGGIOPIANO DI MAURO GALARDI CONTINUES TOMORROW -- AUGUST 18

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO - PART 4

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO -- FLORENCE, ITALY

Here comes another tirade.

Though I listened to Popeye and ate plenty of spinach growing up in the Rust Belt, I came to dread all pastas allegedly done Florentine style.

Even in big city restaurants in the Midwest, Manhattan and Miami, the Florentine stuff had an overpowering bitter spinach taste.

Often, it also included unappetizing green pasta -- allegedly infused with spinach, but most likely food dyed in the de-flavorizing machine.

Not so with Pallottino's lasagne fatte in casa alla vecchia maniera (homemade lasagna done the old way.)

Very mild spinach noodles caressed the finest ricotta in these meatless baked dish.

Crispy on top, dense and creamy inside, it was the best lasagna I have ever tasted.

IF YOU GO:

Address: Via Isola delle Stinche 1 r

Tel:  055/289573

http://www.trattoriapallottino.com

trattoriapallottino@yahoo.it

Pallatino has outstanding wheelchair access at its outside seating area.

Inside, things are a little tight, but the owner treated us like family -- bringing three different kinds of chairs until Heidi felt comfortable sitting in one to get a break from her manual wheelchair.

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO - PART 3

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO -- FLORENCE, ITALY

Speaking of roast potatoes, what is it about the Tuscan roast spud?

Why is it so superior to the American version?

I can't tell you how many times I've ordered "redskin" or "new" potatoes -- even at a top drawer seafood or steak house -- only to be sorely disappointed in the bland little cubes of flavorless starch sitting next to an otherwise top-drawer entree prepared by a skilled chef?

Is it the source tater itself?

Is it the generous use of olive oil? 

Do they know to toss a little garlic on the spuds to give 'em some life?

I've gotta ask somebody who knows, because Tuscan roast potatoes -- especially those prepared by the owner's wife at the helm in Pallottino's kitchen, are as savory as the best hash brown from a greasy spoon diner.

Somehow, in his limited English, Pallottino's owner convinced me to order lasagna with spinach.

PART 4 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 10 

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO - PART 2

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO -- FLORENCE, ITALY

In Florence, local flavor means an Pallottino appetizer of crostini di polenta fritta ai funghi porcini -- ie, little toasts made of lightly fired polenta and topped with porcini mushrooms to die for.

Because lunch is often the biggest meal of the day, next comes ribollita alla contadina, the famed bread and tomato-based Tuscan soup thick as stew.

Starving, we also ordered Pallottino's signature cannellini beans in tomato sauce, though it might have been wiser to go with the more traditional olive oil base since the hearty ribollita also was tomato-based.

No matter how good the primi was, the best -- by far -- was yet to come in the secondi.

My bride of a quarter century Heidi went for the blackboard special of porchetta with outstanding roasted potatoes.

Porchetta is Italian for suckling pig that is heavily salted on the outside, deboned, stuffed with garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds, and other herbs, then rolled up and slowly roasted.

The result is a stunning piece of pork with the perfect amount of buttery fat and crispy skin on the plate to add to the flavor.

Porchetta usually is served room temperature or cold.

Pallottino serves it chilly.

Here's a little hint for those of you who perhaps are children of the Great Lakes who grew up thinking everything out of mom's kitchen should be nice and warm -- put the hot out of the oven taters on top of the porchetta and you've got warmed pork without offending the kitchen.

We certainly didn't stoop to such devices, we're just saying...

PART 3 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 9 

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO - 1

TRATTORIA PALLOTTINO -- FLORENCE, ITALY

Thanks to Trattoria Pallottino, the upscale Italian restaurants seem average, the dependable red table cloth joints have become barely mediocre and my homemade pasta just plain lousy.

Maybe it comes off as backhanded, but that's about the highest compliment I could pay to a family-run trattoria in the heart of historic Florence.

Family is key, as the owner cradles a sleeping infant against his shoulder as he hands you the menu.

He returns, little one in stroller this time, to tell you the day's specials and to help steer you toward the menu items that are most representative of Tuscan cuisine.

Tuscans are proud of the olive oil, white beans, wild boar, beef, tomatoes, mushrooms and other items that come from their region.

They want patrons to know that no matter what the 100-plus item Italian restaurant back on Mainstreet USA tells you, there IS NOT ONE ITALY.

The nation has barely been unified for a century and a half and unlike the globalization that kills individuality in the states, Italy takes pride in its unique regional flavors.

PART 2 POSTS TOMORROW -- JUNE 8

FLORENCE RESTAURANT GUIDE

FLORENCE EATS FROM THE VIEWPOINT OF STUDENTS

Restaurants in Florence is a straightforward guide to Tuscan Cuisine.  In the website's own words:

"Before coming in Florence perhaps your main thinking weren't only directed toward the world famous masterpieces such as the paintings of Leonardo, the sculptures of Michelangelo, or the projects of Brunelleschi....

Restaurantsinflorence.com the best selection of Italian and International restaurants, pubs, bars, pizzerias, ice cream shops, all with direct links to their official websites and to their social networks (where available). 

We at restaurantsinflorence.com know that your interests toward the Italian cuisine masterpieces competes with your interests toward the Florentine art...and we understand you!!

The pleasure of a good dinner in an excellent pizzeria can, without doubts, challenge the intellectual satisfaction of visiting the main masterpieces of the town: a good Chianti can give you the same joy of the view of a beautiful Leonardo da Vinci painting, the famous "bistecca alla fiorentina" can surely compete with all the sculptures of Michelangelo and the view of a real Italian tiramisu can give to you no less interior happiness than the view of a beautiful Tuscan landscape.

In Florence you can find very good place where you can spend little money...the very important thing is to go off the tourist main beaten road!!!

We'll indicate to you the places where the real Florentines prefer to go, places where you can find the best quality for a fair price.

We've even inserted some of the very best restaurants They can cost a lot of money but, once in a life, you should do this experience.

www.restaurantsinflorence.com